In Fond Memory

Donald (Angus) McKinnon

South Uist

who served in Waverley for many years

and enriched her with his unforgettable

Gaelic courtesy

and

David MacDonald

Friend and ‘Commodore’

of many years

who loved the Waverley

and the Hebrides

Contents____________________________________________________________

List of Illustrations___________________________________________________

Preface____________________________________________________________

The WAVERLEY___________________________________________________

WAVERLEY Reborn________________________________________________

To the Hebrides_____________________________________________________

Islay’s Gentle Shore__________________________________________________

Beneath Ben Nevis___________________________________________________

The Sacred Isle______________________________________________________

Through the Whirlpool of Corryvreckan________________________________

A Treasure in Tobermory Bay_________________________________________

1984 - the Year of the Sunshine________________________________________

Mendelssohn’s Staffa_________________________________________________

Through the Dorus Mor______________________________________________

Craignure’s First Paddle Steamer______________________________________

Paddlebeats Return to Crinan_________________________________________

The Loch of the Warriors.____________________________________________

A False Start________________________________________________________

Into Loch Sunart____________________________________________________

Milford Haven to Staffa Direct (almost)_________________________________

Round Ardnamurchan to Skye________________________________________

Raasay Solitude_____________________________________________________

By Salen and Salen__________________________________________________

Across the Minch____________________________________________________

The Loch Erisort Ceilidh_____________________________________________

By Trodday to Skye__________________________________________________

A Day to Forget_____________________________________________________

Bay of the Castle____________________________________________________

Old Friends in Uist__________________________________________________

By Uist to the Loch of the Sea-Wolves___________________________________

The Invasion of Tarbert______________________________________________

From the Sound of Shiant to the Straits of Dover_________________________

The Second Decade__________________________________________________

Sunshine and Skye___________________________________________________

The Iona Swell______________________________________________________

Over the Craighouse Bar_____________________________________________

Turned at the Mull__________________________________________________

A Look at Salen_____________________________________________________

BALMORAL’s Year_________________________________________________

Royal Mail Ship to Colonsay__________________________________________

To God’s Isle by the Sound of Islay_____________________________________

WAVERLEY Returns to the Hebrides__________________________________

Glasgow to the Isles__________________________________________________

Round MacBrayne’s Cape Horn_______________________________________

Ardnamurchan Weather_____________________________________________

Over the Sea to Skye_________________________________________________

Paddles Return to Broadford__________________________________________

The Red Cuillin_____________________________________________________

Into the Loch of Hell_________________________________________________

An ‘Off Day’ on Raasay______________________________________________

Around the Aird____________________________________________________

Uig________________________________________________________________

Round Waternish to Dunvegan________________________________________

‘Land of the Mountain and the Flood’__________________________________

The Kylerhea Shuttle________________________________________________

A Return to Uist and Tir nan Og_______________________________________

A Voyage of Discovery_______________________________________________

The Sound of Harris_________________________________________________

The Kyle of Scalpay__________________________________________________

The Taipan of Stornoway and the Venerable MARY JANE________________

The Commodore of Kilchoan__________________________________________

Around Mull - the Wrong Way.________________________________________

Farewell Old Friends_________________________________________________

Last Visit of the Millennium___________________________________________

Reflections_________________________________________________________

References_________________________________________________________

Appendices

List of Illustrations

	After Page
Hebridean Voyages of Paddle Steamer WAVERLEY
Paddler on the Royal Route	Frontispiece
Two WAVERLEY’s	13
Beneath the Mighty Ben	15
Crews of the Early 80s	15
Mary’s Well	17
Islay’s Gentle Shore	19
Sunset over Lochaber	19
Round Rubha nan Gall	21
Four Lochs Cruise (Map)	21
Columba’s Sacred Isle	21
Sound of Iona	21
Paddlebeat Returns	23
Loch of the Warriors (Map)	23
The Only Paddler	23
Casualties of Lady Rock	23
Round Ardnamurchan (Map)	27
Shoals O’ Herring	27
Cuillin Splendour	27
The Port of the King	27
Raasay Sound of Silence	27
The Kyle Line	27
Loch Sunart Cruise (Map)	29
Tobermory Treasure	29
North Pier	29
Across the Minch	31
Anchor Bay	31
Paddler Gael	31
Round the Shiants (Map)	31
Loch Erisort Ceilidh (Map)	31
Crossing the Minch (Map)	33
Commodores and Friends	33
Sleat and Lochalsh (Map)	33
Loch Eil Cruise (Map)	33
The Misty Isle	35
By Kishmul’s Ramparts	35
Rare Visit	35
Old Friends in Uist	35
The Loch of the Sea-wolves	37
Through the Maddies	37
Outer Isles Paddle Steamer	37
The Long Island (Map)	37
Captain Steve and the West Highland Duo	39
Kyle Railhead	39
Through Craighouse Harbour (Map)	41
Pointhouse Paddlers at Port Ellen	41
Commodores Aboard and Ashore	43
West Highland Motorship	45
Royal Mail Ship	45
To the Hebrides	49
Epic Voyage	49
Yet More Commodores	49
Seventy Years at Crinan	51
In the Gloaming	51
Last Paddler for Sixty Years	53
Forgotten Port	53
Wester Ross & Skye (Map)	55
King Edward’s Pier	57
Approach to Dunvegan (Map)	59
Steamship at Dunvegan	59
Sea-going Paddler	61
Rounding the Aird	61
Skye Farewell	61
Displaced at Kyle	63
To the Shiants	67
The Venerable Mary Jane	67
Captains	71
Purser and Engineroom	73
The Chief and the Caterers	73
Excursions in the Hebrides	75
Corryvreckan Sunset	75

Preface

to the first and se cond editions

This is a story of the travels of the preserved steamship WAVERLEY, the last sea-going paddle steamer in the world, in the waters around the Western Highlands and Islands of Scotland in the latter part of the twentieth century. The vessel's inaugural visit to Hebridean seas, in 1981, was the first by a paddle steamer to the area for almost forty years. In the succeeding decade she was to explore extensively in that magnificent area, offering opportunities of a type of sailing no longer commonly available on an equally uncommon type of ship. Some of the visits and sailings were unique, being unknown even in distant times. This is a personal reminiscence of greatly enjoyable days.

The hills, the lochs, the islands and, of course, the steamer feature prominently in this tale but important too are the passengers and the crew; the islanders and the onlookers. All added greatly to the experience. Much thanks is due to the crew for their dedication and forbearance and to the regular passengers, particularly my fellow Commodores for their friendship, good humour and companionship. Some memories will last a lifetime.

Stuart D. Cameron

Glasgow, July 1991

The second edition was written to update the sailings performed by WAVERLEY after the appearance of the first edition in 1991. In 1992 and 1993 WAVERLEY's visits to the Hebrides were considerably shorter than those in the late eighties and early nineties but were still of great interest especially to the regular travellers from earlier years. In 1994 WAVERLEY omitted the Western Isles from her programme for the first time in thirteen years and she was sadly missed but by way of compensation her fleetmate, the veteran motor vessel BALMORAL, undertook her first ever programme of excursions in the Hebrides, managing to visit two ports that her prestigious partner had never discovered. Amidst general approval WAVERLEY returned to the Islands on the Edge of the Ocean in 1995 with a programme of excursions equal in stature to the halcyon years of 1989 and 1990. As always she graced the Hebrides as only a traditional paddle steamer could.

Stuart D. Cameron

Glasgow, May 1996

PREFACE

to the third edition

The third edition updates the record of WAVERLEY’s Hebridean voyages to 1998 which is likely to be the last visit of the 20th Century and the last of the ‘original’ steamer. Hopefully, WAVERLEY will return to the Western Isles in the new Millennium, thoroughly rejuvenated for many more visits in the 21st Century.

Stuart D. Cameron

Glasgow, October 1998

The WAVERLEY

On the sixteenth of June, 1947 the new Clyde paddle steamer WAVERLEY, a product of the A & J Inglis shipyard at Pointhouse in Glasgow, took up service on the LNE Railway route from Craigendoran to Lochgoilhead and Arrochar. Few observers of the day could have predicted the extent of the vessels' travels in the second half of the twentieth century. She was after all, only another Clyde paddle steamer, the latest in a long line of such vessels that had traversed the beautiful waters of the Firth of Clyde, its Kyles and Lochs for almost a century and a half. WAVERLEY was built as a replacement for a vessel of the same name, constructed in 1899 and, by 1939, one of the all time favourites of the Clyde's large fleet of paddlers. She had been lost whilst bravely evacuating helpless British troops from the terrible Nazi onslaught of the beaches at Dunkirk in May 1940.

The new WAVERLEY was the first new Clyde steamer to be built after the end of the Second World War, but her design was firmly rooted in the 1930's. Time was to tell that she would be the last conventional steam powered passenger vessel ever to be built for service in Clyde waters; the end of a long line that could be traced back to Henry Bell's famous little paddle steamer COMET which became the first commercial steamship in Europe when she sailed from Glasgow to Greenock and Helensburgh in August 1812. That early lead in steamship development was maintained by the numerous Clyde shipbuilders for over one hundred and twenty years. The Clyde was the birthplace of the paddle steamer and its expertise in producing such vessels was never surpassed. The river's fleet of paddlers rose to over thirty vessels at times; many built to great standards of luxury and speed. The hull forms were light, sleek and awe-inspiring; they were at once great works of engineering and art.

Generations of Glaswegians held the newest and fastest of the Clyde paddle steamers in the same wonder that their descendants would hold jet aircraft, fast sports cars and luxury speedboats. For many of the city's residents a sail to Dunoon, Rothesay or Millport for a short break from the grime and toil of the powerhouse of the British Empire was as important as today's escapes to the sunnier climes of Spain, Italy or Greece. Such was the great tradition into which the WAVERLEY of 1947 was born but that tradition was already waning in the 1950s as the relentless march of time brought the twin threats of the motor car and the foreign holiday, starving the great paddle steamer fleets of their deck crowding throngs. One by one the paddle steamers and turbine steamers went for scrap - by 1970 WAVERLEY was the last paddle steamer on the Clyde and the last sea-going paddle steamer in Europe and by 1972 she was the last sea-going paddle steamer in the world. All the other paddle steamers that were still in operation sailed on rivers or freshwater lakes. It was widely forecast in the early 1970s that the end of the traditional British excursion steamer was imminent; many expected that the WAVERLEY would go for scrap after the end of the 1973 season.

WAVERLEY Reborn

In the latter years enthusiasts of the paddle steamer had formed a body named the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society with the aim of acquiring and preserving examples of that type of ship. A lot of hard work was expended and the small ex-River Dart paddle steamer KINGSWEAR CASTLE was bought and laid up pending restoration. However, no great progress was made until one dark winter day in November 1973 when the Secretary of the Scottish Branch of the PSPS was requested to attend a meeting at the Gourock headquarters of Caledonian MacBrayne, owners of the Clyde's last paddle steamer. His worst fears were realised when CalMac confirmed that they were no longer able to keep the historic vessel in service. However, he was astounded by the offer that followed. In recognition of the PSPS efforts in recent years to publicise the vessel and maximise her revenue, the CalMac board had decided to forgo the 'scrap' value of the vessel and effectively donate the ship to the PSPS for permanent preservation. In fact the vessel changed hands on the 8th August, 1974 for the nominal sum of £1. Over the following months tens of thousands of pounds had to be raised to restore the vessel to operational condition. In May 1975, restored to her magnificent original livery of red, white and black funnels, she proudly sailed down the Clyde under the houseflag of the Waverley Steam Navigation Company which had been formed by the PSPS to operate the vessel. In command was Captain David Neill of Western Ferries who was fulfilling a lifelong ambition to skipper a paddle steamer after observing the operations of the 1934 Denny-built paddle steamer CALEDONIA at Ayr during his school holidays in the 1950s. His influence over the following two decades was to significantly change the fate of the ship and add a new and amazing chapter to the history of the British paddle steamer.

In 1975 WAVERLEY was twenty-eight years old and in all that time she had never left the relatively calm waters of her native Firth of Clyde. Indeed, in her early years she concentrated her efforts in the upper Firth, Lochs Long and Goil being her usual haunts. Ailsa Craig was a long way off to the WAVERLEY in those days and it was 1975 before she reached as far south as Stranraer. However, David Neill recognised that the tourist trade on the Clyde could no longer support an excursion vessel capable of carrying over 1000 passengers for a full six month season. To increase her passenger loading in the early and late seasons, he set about planning schedules for the old steamer that would take her to many old paddle steamer haunts which had not heard the beat of the paddle for many years and to other areas and ports which the paddlers had never reached. She went to the Mersey, the Solent and the Thames and in 1981 she completed her first, of four, circumnavigations of Great Britain. Later she added visits to the Isle of Man, the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Over the next twenty years the vessel was to visit over 150 ports, many of which had not seen a paddle steamer for 30 years or more. It was a far cry from her sheltered upbringing on her daily sailing to Arrochar. Her name was to become well known in many far-flung places and in all these strange new locations she proudly bore the flag of St Andrew at her bows, the thistle of Scotland on the houseflag at her masthead and the name of her birthplace and home, 'Glasgow', on her stern.

To the Hebrides

In 1981 WAVERLEY set off on her first circumnavigation of the mainland of Great Britain, working her way down the Irish Sea, along the English Channel and into the North Sea where she paid her first visits to the Humber, the Tyne and the Forth. At 0800 on June 3rd she rounded Cape Wrath, the north-west tip of Scotland and entered the waters of the Hebrides for the first time. She was the first paddle steamer to sail in those waters for almost forty years. She was headed for Kyle of Lochalsh where she was due to sail at 1400 on her first excursion as a "West Highland Steamer", a single voyage round Ardnamurchan to Oban. However, her inaugural visit to the western waters was not an auspicious one as a strong swell in the Minch caused a blockage in her fuel supply system and she had to anchor off Rubha Reidh for several hours whilst repairs were effected. She did not reach Kyle until 2100, by which time only a handful of passengers was offering for the late sailing to Oban where she arrived at the famous old North Pier at 0500 next morning. She left again five hours later on a single sailing to Port Ellen on the Isle of Islay, her first visit to a Hebridean island. She continued on round the Mull of Kintyre but, due to continuing adverse weather, she diverted to Ayr rather than make for Stranraer as intended. Her first visit to Scotland's western seaboard was over but the seeds were sown for many more voyages of discovery in the seas of the Hebrides over the next decade.

Islay’s Gentle Shore

WAVERLEY's next foray to the west came in the spring of 1982 when she operated her first programme of excursions from Oban and Fort William. This came as part of her second "Round Britain" itinerary which, in that year, was operated in a clockwise direction. So on Friday 23rd April she went astern out of Ayr Harbour and turned her bows towards the southern shore of the Kintyre peninsula. She had about 150 passengers aboard, a reasonable number considering that her special Class III passenger certificate for that day was restricted to 200 people. The sailing around the Mull of Kintyre is fairly exposed and could be lively but, on that day, she encountered only a slight swell after passing through the Sound of Sanda. Whilst skies were overcast, the clouds were high and passengers were content to relax on deck and admire the fine views of the Kiel Hotel in the village of Southend and, off the port bow, the coast of Ulster stretching out towards the Giant's Causeway and Malin Head. Ahead lay lonely Rathlin Island but the highlight of that part of the cruise was the view of the imposing Mull of Kintyre lighthouse which has perched precariously on the storm-torn cliffy edge of the peninsula since 1788, marking the beginning of many hair-raising voyages across the wild North Atlantic to the 'New World'. For many Scots emigrants this tower would be the last landmark of their native land that they would ever see. Once round the Mull our first objective was in view - the Isle of Islay and gradually the Kintyre shoreline became more distant as the southern shore of the whisky island came ever closer. Eventually WAVERLEY negotiated her way through the rocky approaches to the harbour at Port Ellen, berthing at the old mailboat pier on time at 1500. The call at Port Ellen, apart from allowing the passengers a chance to 'stretch their legs' on a stroll along the sandy foreshore, was also required to satisfy the conditions of the passenger certificate which restricts the maximum distance between two ports of call to seventy nautical miles. Whilst this was the vessel's second call at Islay's principal port, for most of the steamer enthusiasts aboard it was the first time that they had called there on a paddle steamer and there was a considerable flurry of photographic activity to record the historic visit. In past times the Islay mail steamer was a paddler, the last regular paddle steamer to serve on the route, from West Tarbert on the mainland, being the MacBrayne vessel PIONEER. She was built in 1905 in the same Glasgow shipyard as the WAVERLEY had been forty two years later. She was a sturdy little vessel; she had to be to brave the winter storms on that very exposed route. PIONEER had last served on the route in the early years of World War II and so it was about forty years since Islay had last seen a paddle steamer. This caused a lot of interest amongst the local schoolchildren who were invited aboard by Captain Neill to look around this curious ship (to those weaned on car ferries), the likes of which they had never seen before. After touring the decks and wondering, briefly, at the massive reciprocating steam engine, they found their favourite location on board - the ship's shop, full of sweets and souvenirs. WAVERLEY was to call at Port Ellen on numerous occasions in the following years and some of the schoolkids would return but there is always a special sense of occasion on the first visit to any new port. In future visits she would be alone in the harbour but on that first visit her erstwhile fleetmate, and latterly rival, the CalMac ferry GLEN SANNOX was also present, a first meeting of two Clyde exiles in MacBrayne territory.

After an hour, with all passengers recalled by a blast on the steam whistle and the Islay residents safely ashore, WAVERLEY reversed away from the harbour in a long sweep to port, her stern pointing into Kilnaughtan Bay, before coming ahead past the lighthouse at Carraig Fhada and setting a course south of the rocky outcrops of Texa Island. We had fine views of the strand of famous Islay malt whisky distilleries at Port Ellen, Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg as the vessel made her way along the south east coast of the island before turning north to cross the mouth of the Sound of Islay and enter the long and wide Sound of Jura. Her passage in this channel was roughly in mid stream passing close to the Skervuille Lighthouse, a neat little tower that marks a shallow reef in the middle of the Sound. Many unsuspecting mariners must have been claimed before that important mark was erected. Indeed, it has recently been speculated that it was on Skervuille that the MacBrayne paddle steamer CHEVALIER (I) of 1853 met her end when she foundered on a rock, then called Skerrie Eirn (Iron Rock) at about 0400 on the calm, clear night of 24th November 1854. In fact this happened after the light was established and it appears that the crew mistook it for another vessel. Why they took no evasive action is a mystery lost in time. As we sailed north in the evening light we drew closer to the Jura shore and could observe the lonely farmhouse in the north east corner of the island where the author George Orwell is said to have written the famous novel "1984". It was difficult to imagine that "Big Brother" could ever permeate the remoteness of Jura. However, there was still two years to go. WAVERLEY forged on with a brief look into Corryvreckan, where she would visit a couple of days later, then continued through the Sounds of Luing, Insh and Kerrera to Oban Bay, heralding her arrival (thirty minutes early) with a long blast on her whistle as she swept around the bay to her berth at the North Pier. Apart from her brief visit a year earlier, the sound of the paddlebeat had not echoed across Oban Bay for almost forty years. Within minutes her passengers were hurrying ashore to their overnight accommodation at the end of a very full and enjoyable day.

Beneath Ben Nevis

Early next morning, before most of her intending passengers were awake, WAVERLEY slipped quietly out of Oban to sail north to Fort William, arriving below the foothills of Ben Nevis at about 0900. This was her first ever visit to the famous highland garrison town whose last regular paddle steamer visitor was MacBrayne's MOUNTAINEER in 1937. The last definite call by a paddle steamer at Fort William, prior to WAVERLEY's first call in 1982, seems to have been made on Saturday 19th October, 1940 when PIONEER was at the pier between 0945 and 1028 on a special livestock sailing to Oban although the Clyde paddle steamer EAGLE III was said to have been based at Fort William towards the end of World War II and may have called at the pier. She did not carry out any civilian duties there. Now, after forty years, the paddlebeat was back. However, Fort William had remained part of the West Highland excursion steamer trade for many years after the paddlers had gone, the most famous vessel to serve the town being the magnificent turbine steamer KING GEORGE V which continued on the route until her final withdrawal in September 1974. WAVERLEY's arrival in the area was a timely reminder of that fine ship as she had been destroyed in a fire at Cardiff Docks only nine months earlier.

At 0930 WAVERLEY left Fort William and retraced her way back down Loch Linnhe to Oban where she embarked a considerable complement. She was dressed overall for this first day excursion in the Hebrides and her near full load of passengers, with many enthusiasts from around the British Isles, were in for a real treat. Her course via the Sound of Kerrera and across the Firth of Lorne took her to the steep sloping south shore of the Island of Mull and on past the entrance to Loch Buie and the descending and flattening profile of the Ross of Mull. To the south lay the Island of Colonsay under overcast skies and ahead lay the treacherous Torran Rocks, through which she set a course, before turning north into the Sound of Iona.

The Sacred Isle

As WAVERLEY dropped anchor off the Sacred Isle of Iona she again revived memories of the turbine steamer KING GEORGE V which had served on the Round Mull excursion to Iona from 1936 until 1974, excepting the years of the Second World War when she was on naval duties. For many years this sailing had been advertised as the "finest coastal day excursion in Britain". Unfortunately, the famous fleet of red-hulled MacBrayne ferryboats that had tendered to visiting steamers during the halcyon days of West Highland cruising were no longer available to ferry WAVERLEY's passengers ashore. At one time a considerable number of these little vessels had been employed in taking passengers ashore as Iona has never possessed a steamboat pier. Waverley Excursions had secured the services of two local ferryboats, the IOLAIRE and the LAIRD OF STAFFA, for that day but the slight swell in the Sound hampered the berthing of these little vessels alongside WAVERLEY's port, aft sponson. This seriously delayed the disembarkation of passengers but, fortunately, Caledonian MacBrayne's ferry COLL was at hand and her help was enlisted to clear the backlog. Enthusiasts thronged Iona's beautiful white beaches to photograph the paddler lying peacefully at anchor in the Sound whilst the more 'normal' passengers made their way to the famous Abbey church. Iona was, of course, where the Irish missionary Columba established his cell from which he introduced Christianity to Scotland. In more recent times the Glasgow minister George MacLeod, later Lord MacLeod of Fuinary, established the Iona Community to restore the ruined abbey of St Mary's and provide employment for craftsman from the city. Iona always seems to have an unique serene atmosphere even when busy with tourists.

WAVERLEY presented a fine sight from the small ferryboats as we made our return on them from the island. At 1650 WAVERLEY weighed anchor and, with three blasts on the whistle, she was away. The visit to Iona was voted a great success and we hoped to return again one day in the future. After an evening call at Oban, in brilliant sunshine, the ship headed north passing Dunollie Castle, the sands of Ganavan and the mouth of Loch Etive into the Lynn of Lorne, the sound that separates the island of Lismore from the mainland peninsulas of Benderloch and Appin. To the east, the peaks of Ben Cruachan were floodlit by the evening sunlight. Although the sun was shining it was not warm and enthusiasts sheltered behind the various windbreaks of the ship's upper deck, determined not to miss any of the views of this beautiful area. The evening cruise from Oban to Fort William was to become a regular feature of the vessel's spring visits to this area over the succeeding decade and more; they were always characterised by low temperatures but were usually dry and sunny. Certain regulars were known to equip themselves with liquid fortification for that part of the voyage as the years progressed! The Benderloch peninsula is always very beautiful in those lighting conditions with fine green park land and natural forest. As the steamer holds close to the shore at Port Appin, which used to boast a pier for use by passing ships, the imposing tower of Castle Stalker is seen to starboard. It has dominated that area for over seven hundred years. The course north from the Lynn is not obvious to the uninitiated with Shuna Island apparently preventing further progress but, as the ship cleared the small islets to the north of Lismore, she swung first to port then back to starboard to escape into the wider waters of Loch Linnhe. In the gathering darkness a fine farmhouse was espied on Shuna then the lights of Ballachulish and Onich could be seen far over on the starboard bow. Soon we were racing through the Corran Narrows into Lochaber and the old turntable ferry GLENAHULISH was already at rest for the night. The hills accentuated the dark, coldness. Fort William was a welcome sight and soon Captain Neill had WAVERLEY safely berthed at the tiny pier.

Through the Whirlpool of Corryvreckan

On Sunday 25th April the WAVERLEY sailed again from Fort William to Oban, a considerable crowd of people witnessing her passage through the Corran Narrows from either shore. After Oban she continued south past Kerrera and binoculars were in good use to pick out the famous "Bridge over the Atlantic" which connects the Island of Seil to the mainland. Once through Insh Sound we had fine views of the villages of Easdale and Cullipool on the little group of islands known collectively as the Slate Islands because of their once extensive, but now defunct, slate quarries. Some curious old workings are still evident on the tiny island of Belnahua. WAVERLEY passed the distinctive little white lighthouse on the Island of Fladda entering the Sound of Luing. The pinnacled seabed in that area causes much disturbance and eddies on the surface of the water, an overture for the main programme - the Whirlpool Gulf of Corryvreckan. After passing the Island of Scarba, WAVERLEY swung to starboard to enter the Gulf, the first passenger vessel to do so since the departure of the veteran KING GEORGE V. At first only a gentle swell was encountered but, as we proceeded to the western end of the channel, we met a considerable cauldron of tortured seas and the ship pitched for a few minutes until calmer waters were reached. We had seen a little of Corryvreckan's might. WAVERLEY returned by the west shore of Lunga to Oban and Fort William.

On the following two days WAVERLEY completed her West Highland schedule with schools cruises and an unscheduled evening sailing to Ballachulish Bridge. At 1800 on Tuesday, April 27th she left Oban to continue her Round Britain programme sailing north about and reaching Granton Harbour, near Edinburgh, thirty-eight hours later.

A Treasure in Tobermory Bay

After the successful 1982 visit there were high hopes for a return visit to the West Highlands in 1983. However, due to changed pier requirements at Oban resulting in a downgrading of the North Pier, it became difficult to obtain a suitable and guaranteed berth in the town. As a result, no sailings could be operated from Oban that year and the ship performed only one sailing in the Western Highlands in 1983, again as part of her Round Britain programme. On Wednesday 25th May she anchored off Corran after a thirty-one hour voyage from Granton and at 0830 she berthed at Fort William pier. It was a fine, sunny day and an almost full complement of 842 passengers boarded for a sailing that was to take the steamer on her first visit to Tobermory, Capital of the Isle of Mull. However, before we left Fort William we were informed that the pier at Tobermory had been declared unsafe (although the CalMac ferry COLUMBA was still scheduled to make a final call two days later). There was a feeling of disappointment amongst the enthusiasts aboard who had been looking forward to seeing the first paddle steamer at Tobermory for almost forty years. The last paddler to call had been the PIONEER whilst relieving the Sound of Mull mailboat LOCHINVAR in August 1943. They were compensated by the prospect of an even more unusual call for a paddler - at the Island of Lismore. However, unbeknown to the passengers on WAVERLEY that day there was considerable activity ashore to ensure that the paddler's visit to Tobermory would go ahead as planned. The residents of Mull were aghast at the prospect of the loss of their pier and were determined that it should be rebuilt. They saw the paddler's visit as an excellent way of attracting publicity to their cause. Their community leaders contacted CalMac and persuaded them to allow WAVERLEY to call and requested, by a VHF radio link to the ship, that she should continue with the original plan. Captain Neill was happy to oblige and, after all the fuss, took the vessel alongside effortlessly. The passengers and the locals were delighted. As it turned out this was the last ever steamer call at Tobermory's old pier and we were very fortunate that the brilliant sunshine reflecting on the sea, the ship, the hills and Tobermory's famous brightly coloured buildings made it a very memorable scene. The photographers had a field day on a unique occasion (whilst the ship called at the replacement pier in many subsequent years the angle of that structure to the shore was not as good for photographic purposes.). A sizeable contingent of locals toured the ship while she rested at the pier and they seemed suitably impressed. After an hour in the Tobermory sun-trap it was time to go. At that time the prospects of the pier being replaced were uncertain, indeed unlikely, and Captain Neill gave three long and rather sad farewell blasts on the whistle as she reversed out into the bay, towards Calve Island. If this was to be the last call by a passenger vessel at the historic and popular little town, at least it was made by a traditional steamship; its decks crowded with holidaymakers enjoying the afternoon sunshine.

As we headed south there were fine views of Rubha nan Gall, the entrance to Loch Sunart and distant Ardnamurchan which were to feature prominently in future West Highland adventures although on this occasion we only had a brief taster. The weather for the ship's first visit to Tobermory was perfect and this was a characteristic that was to be repeated on many of the future West Highland first calls, a remarkable but welcome feature given the possibilities for weather in that part of the world. WAVERLEY returned by the Sound of Mull, passing the Outer Isles ferry CLAYMORE off Lismore Light then proceeded by the Lynn of Lorne to Fort William. After a short evening cruise from there she proceeded direct, overnight to the ClydeDock Engineering yard at Govan for repairs to the port paddlewheel. Her 1983 visit had been a very short one but will be long remembered for its excellent weather and the sense of occasion.

1984 - the Year of the Sunshine

The problems of berthage at Oban and Tobermory may have hindered any further West Highland tours and this story may have ended at this point but for the tenacity of various people in pursuing solutions to these hindrances. It was good to see that a long West Highland weekend was included in WAVERLEY's 1984 timetable although it was not part of a Round Britain programme on that occasion as numbers on the East Coast had been lower in 1982-83.

Her weekend started on Friday 4th May with a similar sailing to that two years earlier from Ayr to Port Ellen and Oban. This time she had a near full complement and the weather was much sunnier and warmer than in 1982. However, this resulted in a thick heat haze which obscured many of the sights en route. Only a faint outline of Sanda, off the port side, confirmed our location off Kintyre - there would be no chance of seeing Ireland on that occasion. With little to see the passengers aboard contented themselves with a relaxing lounge on the upper deck until their slumbers were rudely interrupted by a low flying Sea King helicopter which made several sweeps over the ship, the pilot giving us a friendly wave before he took the giant machine off into the mist to the north. Peace and tranquillity were restored until a blast on the ship's whistle heralded our arrival at Port Ellen.

A very pleasant hour was passed, strolling around the sun-kissed bay. The Islay schoolkids were back for supplies and were obviously very impressed by the wide, frothy wake as the paddler reversed into the bay to continue her journey north in the Sound of Jura. The mist cleared and George Orwell's Barnhill Cottage could be clearly seen ashore - it was now 1984 but there was still no sign of "Big Brother" on Jura.

On time the ship reached Oban and the extent of the berthage problem became obvious with only one half of the front face of the North Pier available to the 240-feet long vessel. There was just enough room to get her port paddlebox alongside the pier with her bows only a few feet away from the yachts and fishing vessels berthed at the other half of the pier. The crews of these small craft seemed a bit concerned at the approach of the "mighty paddler" but soon the skills of the crew in handling their vessel were plain for all to see. The advantages of a paddle vessel in being able to grip the water faster than a screw-driven ship and so stop and start more quickly was an advantage in such a tight corner, although maybe the manoeuvrability of twin screws would have been of some help. In that year and subsequent years the handling of the vessel at that berth proved to be one of the highlights of Oban visits. After her Oban passengers had disembarked WAVERLEY reversed out into the bay in a long sweep towards Kerrera, the natural breakwater that protects Oban Bay from the great swells of the Firth of Lorne and resulted in the town becoming the gateway to the Hebrides. Appropriately a memorial to David Hutcheson, who was an early pioneer of steamship operations to the islands, stands on the north end of Kerrera. One wonders what he would have thought of this vessel with North British Railway funnels in "his bay". WAVERLEY continued north to Fort William, berthing at dusk with a fine clear view of Ben Nevis, considering the heat haze earlier (the heat had also disappeared!). The ship was dressed overall with a strand of white lights and presented a fine sight as she lay at the pier after her twelve hour sailing from Ayr.

Next day was again fine as WAVERLEY came away from Fort William pier astern in a long sweep across the loch, affording good views of the villages of Trislaig and Camusnagaul on the opposite shore. Then she hurried off down the loch passing the now familiar sights of Corran and Shuna where she diverted to port into the Lynn of Lorne. Such is the great beauty of this area that it is impossible to tire of sailing in it. On reaching Oban it was not possible to call at the North Pier but with the co-operation of CalMac the vessel paid her first ever visit to the Railway Pier, berthing "starboard side to" at the centre section. Although berthing at the North Pier was delicate, departing from this berth at the Railway Pier was decidedly more awkward and time-consuming. Unable to come ahead out of that berth due to a lack of turning space (and a bow thruster!), Captain Neill had to spring the ship on the forward, starboard sponson, come astern onto the knuckle of the pier. Then he put the aft, starboard spring back ashore to warp the vessel's stern round into the car ferry berth (the overnight berth of KING GEORGE V many years earlier). From that position she could leave the pier ahead. Whilst all this ship-handling was of great interest to the enthusiasts aboard, it tended to play havoc with time-keeping and she wasted no more time, hurrying across the Firth of Lorne for her second passenger sailing in the Sound of Mull. Close to Duart Castle, seat of the MacLean chiefs, she passed her old Clyde partner GLEN SANNOX, then employed as the Mull ferry. The early morning mist was clearing and the sun was again in evidence for her second visit to Tobermory. By now the locals had won their fight to have the pier rebuilt and it was closed whilst that work progressed so preventing a call by the ship. The anchor was dropped and an "Iona-type" ferrying operation began utilising the traditional red-hulled ferryboat APPLECROSS, by then one of the few surviving. A surprising total of almost 150 people joined by ferry at Tobermory requiring three runs by the ferry from the shore. The locals had fought for the pier and were obviously intent on using it. APPLECROSS was having a busy day that day as she also had to tender to the Inner Isles ferry CLAYMORE. After her hectic period tendering to WAVERLEY the little craft returned to the pier for a well-earned rest.

Mendelssohn’s Staffa

WAVERLEY was headed for waters new as she followed in the wake of KING GEORGE V and the beautiful paddle steamer GRENADIER round Rubha nan Gall and into the slight Atlantic swell off Glengorm Castle. With her decks well filled and the mist clearing, there was much interest in the views astern of Ardnamurchan and the Small Isles of Rum, Muck and Eigg with its prominent Sgurr. Coll and Tiree were very clear to the west as were the high Mull mountains and the silver sands of Calgary (from where emigrants departed to found the great Canadian city) to port. Ahead were the Treshnish Isles with the distinctive outline of Bac Mor, the Dutchman's Cap, easily identified. On rounding Rudh a' Chaoil, our objective was in sight, the towering Island of Staffa, a great source of inspiration to many including Wordsworth and Mendelssohn. Felix Mendelssohn travelled to Staffa by paddle steamer in the 1820s. The weather was foul and he was terribly seasick but the vast basaltic pillars, which form the steep sides of the island and its numerous caves, so impressed him that he was later to compose his haunting Hebridean Overture, better known as Fingal's Cave after the island's most prominent cavern. As the WAVERLEY performed her clockwise circumnavigation of the island, Mendelssohn's overture was played over the public address system. Individually, both the island and the overture are impressive. When brought together on the deck of a steamer, as Mendelssohn first conceived them, the effect was memorable. Despite the calm sea conditions for WAVERLEY's visit, there were some waves breaking on the rocky shore and one could imagine the tremendous crashing seas that inspired the great crescendos of Mendelssohn's masterpiece. In earlier times steamers landed their passengers on Staffa to allow them to visit the caves but the practice ceased in the 1960s after a rock fall and so WAVERLEY's passengers had to content themselves with a sail around the island. Too soon we were headed for home and the island was left well astern but we still had fine views to the east of the little islands of Ulva and Gometra that guard the entrance to Loch na Keal. It was in that isolated loch, forty years earlier, that many of the classic naval manoeuvres of the Second World War were planned and practised, safe from spying eyes.

Back at Tobermory, with all the locals safely ferried ashore, WAVERLEY weighed anchor to head back to Oban. However, as the "hook" emerged from the deep, a huge boulder was found to have lodged between its flukes. It certainly did not look like the legendary treasure from the wreck of the elusive Spanish galleon ALMIRANTE de FLORENCIA, which was blown up in the bay by locals after the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588. Several "dunkings" failed to dislodge WAVERLEY's unwanted treasure, so she sailed off down the Sound of Mull, with the anchor trailing, until the unusual cargo was finally jettisoned and returned to the deeps, albeit a few miles away from its previous resting place. WAVERLEY returned to Oban and Fort William without further incident.

Through the Dorus Mor

A late start from Fort William on Sunday May 6th allowed the early cloud to clear and, as WAVERLEY headed south to Oban, the sun appeared again. Initially, the course from Oban was similar to the Corryvreckan cruise of 1982, passing through the Sound of Luing between Scarba and Lunga. However, before heading for the Whirlpool she rounded the southern tip of Luing in a significant detour to the "Four Lochs", a variation of a well known former cruise schedule operated by MacBrayne's LOCHFYNE, LOCHNEVIS and KING GEORGE V. The course took her between Luing and Shuna in Shuna Sound, passing to port the little village of Toberonochy. Ahead lay the great confluence of Shuna Sound, Seil Sound, Loch Shuna and Loch Melfort which the vessel crossed, turning in the mouth of Melfort, and then headed south through Loch Shuna to Craignish Point. Here her head was swung through to port for her first passage in the Dorus Mor, the Great Gate, between Craignish Point and the little island of Garbh Reisa. At times the tidal race through the Dorus Mor can exceed eight knots and yachtsmen must beware. Once through the channel the bows came north again to enter one of the most beautiful sea-lochs of Scotland, Loch Craignish. She proceeded well into the loch and many of the yachtsmen and locals ashore must have been most surprised to see such a sizeable vessel in those waters. Not for a decade or more had that happened. Near to Ardfern, where the loch widens again, WAVERLEY swung sharply to starboard and headed back down the loch through the narrow, almost canal-like, channel between the eastern shore of the loch and the twin islands, Eilean Righ and Island Makaskin. This was the spectacular location for a speedboat chase in one of the James Bond movies. Loch Craignish is special and a cruise around its water lingers long in the memory. Back at the mouth of the loch we slipped round Rudha Garbh-ard into Loch Crinan and proceeded almost as far as the village of Crinan at the western end of the canal that traverses northern Knapdale. Captain Neill blew the ship's whistle to alert the locals to our presence and many of those aboard were wondering of the possibility of a call there sometime in the future. Captain Neill obviously had similar thoughts and the hopes of that day were to be realised almost a year, to the day, later. For the present, Corryvreckan was our objective and WAVERLEY held a course across the northern end of the Sound of Jura to the passage between Jura and Scarba. It was much calmer than on our previous visit. Our return took us close to the Garvellachs, the Isles of the Sea or Holy Isles, Columba's first resting place before he found Iona.

On Monday May 7th WAVERLEY returned to Iona; this time the CalMac ferry COLL was the sole tender vessel. On that occasion the weather was superb and this encouraged many of the enthusiastic passengers to scale the slopes of Dun I to obtain a perfect picture of the Abbey and the steamboat at anchor in the sound. Especially memorable on that visit was the view of WAVERLEY from the low deck of the COLL as we returned from the island. The strong evening sunlight was reflected off the recently repainted red, white and black colours of the paddler, contrasting sharply with blue colour of the sea and the greenery of the Ross of Mull beyond.

Craignure’s First Paddle Steamer

History was to be made the following day when WAVERLEY sailed from Fort William in the morning to make the first ever call by any paddle steamer at the pier at Craignure on Mull. The pier was built in 1964, long after the demise of the native West Highland paddler. Curiously, her first call coincided with the busiest day in the pier's history. Apart from WAVERLEY, CalMac's two ferries COLUMBA and GLEN SANNOX were operating a two-ship side-loading service that day and the Norwegian cruise liner BLACK PRINCE was anchored off the pier whilst her passengers were ferried ashore to visit the castle at Torosay. At one stage all four vessels were in the environs of the pier, an event never to be repeated. WAVERLEY returned to Fort William to break more new ground with an evening cruise into Loch Eil. This loch was never a regular haunt of West Highland steamers although the small MacBrayne motor vessel LOCHBUIE visited it on sailings from the 'Fort' in the thirties. WAVERLEY left Fort William at 0805 on Wednesday 9th May for a direct twelve and a half hour sailing to Glasgow, her fourth West Highland visit complete. It was undoubtedly the best visit to date, helped in no small measure by the marvellous weather that was to attend most of the vessel's 1984 season.

Paddlebeats Return to Crinan

The first phase of WAVERLEY's West Highland wanderings was over and the trend was set for the following three years, 1985-87, in which the basic pattern was the same as 1984 but with some interesting novelties and always the unexpected or unplanned happening.

The first sailing of 1985, the round the Mull of Kintyre excursion from the Clyde, was different to the two previous such sailings, departing from Campbeltown instead of Ayr. She had operated a Campbeltown-Brodick-Ayr sailing on the previous day, Thursday 2nd May, for the Ayr Show. Her West Highland passengers had joined her at Ayr that evening and had spent the night in Campbeltown. Leaving Campbeltown at 1000 next morning, she rounded the Mull but, instead of heading for Islay as on the previous sailings, she held closer to the Kintyre coast and sailed along the west coast of the Isle of Gigha into the Sound of Jura. Her intermediate port of call on that occasion was Crinan at the western end of the Crinan Canal, her first call at that very beautiful little highland village. She was the first paddle steamer to call there since 1939 when MacBrayne's PIONEER ceased peacetime sailings. Indeed, it was probably just as long since any type of large passenger ship had called at the tiny pier, the only vessels to be found there in recent years being small coasters and yachts awaiting passage through the canal. It was not always so quiet at Crinan; it used to be a major terminal on David MacBrayne's daily express service from Glasgow to the highlands and the Western Isles, even as far north as Inverness. In those days, before the railways penetrated the Highland glens, MacBrayne's Royal Route to the highlands (so called after Queen Victoria travelled over it in 1847) was the most popular means of travel for the landed gentry and their servants. The famous paddle steamer COLUMBA left the Broomielaw in Glasgow each morning (except Sunday) at 7.11am precisely and called at a limited number of piers en route to Ardrishaig where her mainly "well-to-do" passengers transferred to the little canal steamer LINNET for a relatively leisurely sailing to Crinan. There they would change to another paddle steamer, possibly the CHEVALIER or the FUSILIER, for the onward journey to Oban, Fort William and Corpach at the head of Loch Linnhe. At Corpach they could transfer to the paddle steamer GONDOLIER, or possibly the GLENGARRY, for passage through the Caledonian Canal to Inverness. Those passengers headed for the islands would have transferred at Oban, where they may have caught the paddle steamer GRENADIER for Skye or Iona or a screw steamer if they were venturing to the Outer Hebrides. Such was the magnificence of the sea based travel system in those far off days.

There is no scope for overshooting the pier at Crinan as the shoreline turns out to lie dead ahead of the line of approach. The berthing was completed with the usual efficiency and WAVERLEY's passengers went ashore for photographs of the historic first visit to the picturesque harbour. As with Tobermory two years earlier, the sun shone brightly for the visit adding significantly to the enjoyment of the occasion. Climbing the steep hill behind the pier, we were rewarded with a fine panoramic view over the waters and islets stretching out to Scarba and Corryvreckan. The clarity of the air was breathtaking and, below, the sunlight reflected off the red, white and black funnels of the steamer providing a rich contrast with the blues and greens of the waters and the canal-bank shrubs and grasses. The scene could hardly have been more perfect. At 1530 WAVERLEY let go and, with three astern blasts on the whistle, reversed swiftly and gracefully across the loch in a huge arc, stopping, then, slowly at first but rapidly gaining pace, she came ahead whilst turning her bows towards the Dorus Mor across the mouth of Loch Craignish. Watching, from the hilltop, was a magical experience; one to remain in the memory for many years. WAVERLEY continued on to Oban and Fort William becoming one of a fairly small band of ships to have sailed on both sea based sections of the old Royal Route.

The Loch of the Warriors.

Next day (Saturday 5th May) WAVERLEY repeated her round Staffa sailing of a year earlier but on the Sunday it was time to venture into a new area. Heading south from Fort William and Oban to Crinan, WAVERLEY was greeted by a huge crowd on her second visit to that pier. There was hardly space to land a gangway or even a heaving line, so crowded was the quay. Crinan was overtaken by a significant traffic jam on the steep, narrow road down to the harbour. The ship set off with a large complement and continued her southerly course until she reached the Isle of Danna which she rounded and entered Loch Sween, the Loch of the Warriors. It was her first visit to that large sea-loch which penetrates deep into western Knapdale. The loch has relatively low hills around and is not so impressive as Craignish, farther north. Below rather overcast skies, into a stiff and cold northerly breeze, we forged up the loch, passing Castle Sween on the way. At its northern end Loch Sween splits into three short, narrow waterways. The westernmost is Loch a' Bhealaich, not much more than a deep bay but with a fine array of trees around the village at its head, Tayvallich, one of the most beautiful in Argyll.

After a brief look at the village WAVERLEY swung sharply to starboard and headed back down the loch, retracing her wake to Fort William. However, there was a short delay at Crinan as the coach booked to return her day passengers from Glasgow (they had joined at Oban earlier in the day) was unable to traverse the narrow and crowded roads down to the pier. The ship's pursers set off over the hills to find it!

The following day was a repeat of the annual visit to Iona, the CalMac ferry MORVERN performing the tendering duties on that occasion. On Tuesday 7th May WAVERLEY performed her second schools cruise to Craignure, meeting the CLAYMORE there, an unusual duo for that pier. Next day she returned direct to Glasgow.

A False Start

WAVERLEY's 1986 West Highland programme did not go quite to plan. The first sailing was scheduled to be a repeat of the 1985 Campbeltown-Crinan-Oban-Fort William trip but bad weather on the Campbeltown-Ayr sailing the previous day (Thursday 1st May) forced the termination of that sailing at Brodick on the outward leg. The ship eventually had to spend the night sheltering at Tarbert in Loch Fyne. Out of position and with most of her passengers already en route from Ayr to Oban by bus the paddler performed a unique Tarbert to Oban direct, light sailing picking up her schedule at the latter port and proceeding on to Fort William. The sailing the following day was also disrupted. She sailed from the 'Fort' and Oban and was due to call at Tobermory before making her first excursion into Loch Sunart. However, Caledonian MacBrayne were showing off their new car ferry HEBRIDEAN ISLES to the Press and declined to move the vessel away from the pier to allow the paddler to call. As a result the WAVERLEY called at Craignure, by kind permission of the pier's owners Strathclyde Regional Council, the ship's Tobermory passengers being taken to and from there by bus. This exercise delayed her by about one and a half hours, by which time WAVERLEY's Glasgow and Oban passengers knew Craignure very well! The paddler set off up the Sound of Mull at a great rate of knots to make up some of the lost time. It was a gallant effort and she managed to reach the mouth of Loch Sunart before having to turn for home. It was rather disappointing that we were prevented from sailing into the loch as this would have reminded some of us of the very last sailing of the veteran turbine steamer KING GEORGE V which ventured deep into the loch on September 15th, 1974. Most of us had not been back since that day. On the following day (Sunday 4th May) a Four Lochs cruise from Fort William was operated but, unlike the 1984 sailing, a call was made at Crinan both before and after the lochs excursion. This involved four passages through the Dorus Mor in the space of two hours causing some confusion amongst those members of the regular complement who were normally incumbents of that little saloon just aft of the engineroom (the bar). However, it gave plenty of opportunity for the more esoteric to inspect the rocky shoreline of Craignish Point where WAVERLEY's famous progenitor, the COMET of 1812, was wrecked during a West Highland voyage in 1820. Obviously the infamous 'dorus' tide race was too much for the little paddle steamer. Fortunately, her progeny is much more powerful. The remainder of the 1986 visit was completed with a traditional visit to Iona on the Monday (when the visit there was spoiled by an uncharacteristic downpour) followed by a schools cruise to Craignure the next day. On Wednesday May 5th WAVERLEY sailed direct from Oban to Plantation Quay in Glasgow where one of her generators was replaced before she moved back to Anderston.

Into Loch Sunart

The 1987 programme followed very traditional lines, starting with a Round the Mull sailing from Ayr to Port Ellen and Oban on Friday 1st May. The following day the Loch Sunart cruise was repeated, this time with the scheduled stop at Tobermory. The vessel penetrated far enough into the loch to give good views of Glenborrodale Castle and the highlight of this cruise was sailing through the narrow channel between the islands of Risga and Carna that effectively divide the loch into two halves and create something of an inland loch atmosphere in the upper section. The return sailing was completed without incident until the vessel left Oban for the single evening cruise to Fort William. She came to a sudden halt off Ganavan having suffered radius rod and paddle float damage to her port wheel. It was obvious that she would not be able to reach Fort William that night so she limped very slowly back into Oban Bay, only to find that her berth at the North Pier had been taken up by a coaster whose crew had disappeared --- somewhere! There was nothing else for it; the ship's motorised lifeboat was lowered and her passengers were landed on the slipway used by 'Granny' Spencer's pleasure boats. In the gathering darkness, the operation appeared somewhat clandestine but Oban need not have worried. A more unlikely band of invaders would have been difficult to imagine, especially those who wondered how they were now going to reach their booked hotels in Fort William. The challenge of finding a hire bus late on a Saturday night in early May in Oban is just another adventure of the 'Waverley Commodores'. The mission was accomplished with surprising success and the garrison town was eventually reached before the witching hour -- but only just! Meanwhile WAVERLEY's long-suffering engineers spent the night perched on a slippery paddleshaft above the dark, cold waters of Ardantraive Bay repairing the damaged components. This work was complete in time for a 0900 (light) departure for Fort William which was reached just before the advertised departure time. After a very quick turnaround the vessel set off back down the loch, only a few minutes late. Commodores and vessel were re-united. (By this time a regular band of West Highland travellers had been established, many of them travelling on the excellent 'Commodore Club' season tickets. Year after year Commodores, and friends, from the Clyde, London, Belfast, Nottingham, Somerset, Edinburgh and even Rotterdam were to gather to savour the delights of sailing amidst Scotland's most spectacular scenery. The exploits and adventures of the Commodores can only be hinted at in these pages!). The remainder of the 1987 season past uneventfully with cruises to Staffa (Sunday), Iona (Monday) and Craignure (Tuesday) in a similar vogue to previous years. At 2105 on Tuesday 5th May WAVERLEY left Oban and proceeded to the Bristol Channel stopping at Douglas in the Isle of Man en route.

Milford Haven to Staffa Direct (almost)

When WAVERLEY left the West Highlands in 1987 she went to the Bristol Channel and it was from that area that she returned to the Hebrides in 1988. Between these two events she had suffered a major boiler failure which had curtailed her 1987 season and seriously threatened her future. Extensive boiler repairs had been carried out at Yorkhill Quay in Glasgow in the early months of 1988 after which the vessel headed for Milford Haven for a 3-day drydocking. She left Milford Haven early in the morning of Friday April 29th, 1988 when, (according to the timetable) she should have been leaving Ayr for the annual sailing to Oban. She thundered up the Irish Sea on a direct sailing to Oban, arriving there at 0830 next day, much to the relief of her intending passengers who, until they saw her steam up the Sound of Kerrera, were not quite sure where she actually was. They were aware that she had left the Clyde only six days earlier for the Bristol Channel. She had arrived in Oban on time for her Saturday sailing to Tobermory and Staffa but there was one major problem to be solved -- she did not yet have her passenger certificates so she was going nowhere! However, the DTI inspector completed his survey and other formalities with admirable alacrity and the certificates were issued at 1050 just in time for her 1100 sailing. In fact, she sailed a few minutes late but most of her regular passengers were just happy to be sailing on her again after the uncertainties of the preceding winter. Also on that momentous day a new Chief Purser joined the vessel. For Jim MacFadzean, the next few days were something of a baptism of fire but he was to become a linchpin of the day to day operation of the vessel over the following years.

A Four Lochs cruise was operated on the Sunday and it was back to Iona on the Monday (2nd May). The boiler had been well tested over the previous week and the ship was rested next day in preparation for a significant and exciting extension of her Hebridean programme.

Round Ardnamurchan to Skye

WAVERLEY left Oban at 0700 on Wednesday 4th May and headed up the Sound of Mull in glorious early morning sunshine, which reflected off the brightly painted houses of Tobermory as we crossed the mouth of that bay just before 0900. After Rubha nan Gall, instead of making south as on earlier sailings, her bows were pointed in the direction of the Point of Ardnamurchan and within half an hour we were beneath the famous lighthouse that marks the most westerly headland on the mainland of Great Britain. The distinctive granite tower of the lighthouse was silhouetted against the morning sun in the east. It was a new sailing experience for most of those on board including the ubiquitous Commodores. Astern, the Isle of Coll stood out against the blue sky whilst ahead there were magnificent views of the islands of Muck, Eigg and Rum with a distant sight of the Cuillin of Skye beyond. Then someone realised that we could see the mountains on the Isle of Barra, over fifty miles to the west, a rare sight indeed. Gradually Coll and Ardnamurchan drew distant as the Small Isles grew ever larger, the prominent peak of the Sgurr of Eigg changing its remarkable shape with each mile that we progressed past the eastern shore of the island. Over to the east the mountains of Moidart were marvellously set against clear blue skies and backlit by the strong sunlight. Four hours after leaving Oban WAVERLEY was in the Sound of Sleat and preparing to make her first ever call at the great herring port of Mallaig. In the harbour there she joined the two CalMac ferries PIONEER and LOCHMOR. WAVERLEY berthed along the west side of the old inner pier and her passengers filed ashore for another photographic first. Schoolkids and locals came aboard for a cruise on this unique ship. The last regular paddle steamer to call at Mallaig was MacBrayne's FUSILIER whilst she was employed on the Portree Mail Service. This lasted up until 1934 when she was replaced by the motor vessel LOCHNEVIS. After that date PIONEER and MOUNTAINEER probably called on a number of occasions until the start of the War. PIONEER was also employed on the Mail service to Portree at times during the War but was unable to reach Mallaig due to the installation of the anti-submarine boom at Kylerhea.

WAVERLEY warped herself around the end of the pier and left the harbour heading north in the Sound of Sleat, the vast wilderness of Knoydart, unreachable by road, to starboard and the farmlands of the Sleat peninsula on the Isle of Skye to port. The scene was perfect; as we sailed north the Sound gradually narrowed and we had good views of the lighthouse on Isle Ornsay which marks the start of the high lands of Skye. Across the Sound lay the Sandaig Isles at the mouth of Loch Hourn, the well-known location where author and naturalist Gavin Maxwell carried out his fascinating work with otters, ably described in his book 'Ring of Bright Water'. Onward we approached the narrow tide race at Kylerhea with the pallindromic village of Glenelg nestling under the high hills around the Mam Ratagan. The combination of the narrow waters and the high mountains give this area a wonderful, claustrophobic feeling but it was undoubtedly the highlight of the day. Emerging from narrow Kylerhea into the wider Loch Alsh a magnificent panorama unfolded with Balmacara ahead, Loch Duich and the famous castle at Eilean Donan to the east and, as we turned to port, the Kyle of Lochalsh ahead in the distance. Ten minutes later WAVERLEY berthed at the old railhead pier at Kyle, her first call there since the rather delayed inaugural visit there in 1981. For those of us who had been thwarted on that occasion it had been a long wait for our second chance. The last paddler to call at Kyle had been the PIONEER in 1943. However, there was no time to get ashore for a photograph on that occasion as WAVERLEY had to board a large complement of schoolchildren (her numbers were up to 750 after Kyle) for a non-landing cruise around the Crowlin Islands, off the Applecross Peninsula, and along the north shore of Loch Carron and into Loch Kishorn. She turned off the now deserted and silent work-camps of the 'Kishorn Commandos' the hardy breed who, several years earlier, built the largest oil production platform in the World at this lonely, and often inhospitable, spot. WAVERLEY retraced her way to Kyle and Mallaig, her army of excited young travellers from Morar and Acharacle and Lochcarron and Plockton departing with souvenirs and stories of adventures on the World's Last Sea-going Paddle Steamer on her visit to their native waters. For the Commodores the day was not yet over. WAVERLEY pulled out of Mallaig harbour just after 1800; we had been sailing for eleven hours but we still had another three hours of sailing in 'uncharted' waters ahead of us.

After the crowded sailing of the previous few hours it was good to have the ship to ourselves again and we took the opportunity of a quiet cafeteria to go below for a leisurely high tea as the ship sailed back through the Sound of Sleat. We returned on deck in time to see her through Kylerhea for the third and final time that day. Above Kyle she followed a course along the western edge of the Inner Sound until we reached Caol Mor, the great strait, between the islands of Scalpay and Raasay. She passed through that kyle into the Sound of Raasay. With Loch Sligachan on Skye to port and Raasay to starboard we pressed northwards; the sun had deserted us and a stiff northerly breeze together with the gathering darkness resulted in 'rather cool' conditions at the Commodores' favourite position on the upper deck. Our willpower was tested to the limit and we all confessed to some relief when the vessel rounded the great headland formed by Ben Tianavaig and entered the deep bay that forms Portree Harbour. The lights of Portree, Port of the King and Capital of the Isle of Skye, were a very welcome sight. Just after 2100 WAVERLEY slipped alongside Portree pier for the first time, becoming the first paddle steamer to visit Portree since MacBrayne's PIONEER forty-five years earlier. Her passengers were soon ashore; it was too dark for photographs that night, the morning would have to do. Everyone hurried off to their hotels and boarding houses to heat up!

Wednesday 4th May, 1988 had been the longest and one of the most memorable of WAVERLEY's sailings in the Western Isles; reminiscent, in some ways, of the sailings from Oban round Ardnamurchan to Skye by the beautiful clipper-bowed MacBrayne paddle steamer GRENADIER of 1885 (although the course of the older vessel differed from that just completed by WAVERLEY). It was a day that would probably live on for ever in the memories of the hundred or so hardy but fortunate souls who had spent the entire fourteen hours aboard the vessel. Not even the bitter wind of the last hour could sully that memory.

Raasay Solitude

Next morning the regular travellers were up early and, after breakfast, spent an enjoyable hour or so photographing the steamer at every conceivable vantage point around the impressive bay. Portree once had a daily steamer service from the mainland and the sight of more than one steamer at the pier was not uncommon but in recent years calls by large passenger ships have been restricted to occasional charter visits by CalMac ferries. So the sight of a paddle steamer at the pier brought the locals out in numbers. Just after 1000 WAVERLEY departed Portree with a significant number of schoolchildren aboard, reversing into the west bay then coming ahead between the two high headlands that have made Portree Harbour such an important anchorage. Steaming south in the Sound of Raasay, we noted that Skye was living up to its reputation as 'the Misty Isle', the highest tops being entirely shrouded in cloud. However, there was breaks in the cover and the curious flat-topped volcanic peak of Dun Caan on the Isle of Raasay was prominent on our port side. About half an hour after leaving Portree, WAVERLEY was negotiating the channel through the Narrows of Raasay and made her way into Raasay pier at Suisinsh which is near the southern end of the island. This was, of course, her first ever visit to Raasay, an island whose population numbers only about a hundred. It seemed that most of them were on the pier to greet us (their first paddle steamer since about 1940), a scene reminiscent of the traditional calls by the mailboats at all small Hebridean settlements in the past and one that has waned somewhat in the era of the regular roll-on/roll-off ferry call. Unusually, WAVERLEY stopped at Raasay for forty minutes, a thoughtful inclusion by the timetable planners for the enthusiastic photographers amongst the passengers. On cue, the sun appeared and for most of us our first visit to Raasay was a very memorable one. The clouds had lifted from the Cuillin peaks across the Sound making a dramatic backdrop to the view from the steep hillside behind the pier. The combination of Raasay pier, the fine lines of the steamer alongside, the blue Sound and the awesome slopes of Glamaig made for a perfect picture. As we sat on the hillside overlooking this scene it was interesting to reflect on the great variety of scene and atmosphere that the WAVERLEY experiences on her travels around the British Isles. From this beautiful, tranquil spot, where she was the centre of attraction, she would find herself, within the space of a few weeks, sailing through the shipyards on the Clyde, wending her way through the busy shipping lanes of the English Channel and berthed in the busy Pool of London with tourists from around the world and City moguls almost oblivious to her presence (except, perhaps, when she disrupts their travel plans by requiring Tower Bridge to open to allow her passage.) It also occurred to us that Raasay possesses a remarkable fine pier (many much larger places would be very glad of it) but we were curious why it had been located so far from the island's principal settlement, Inverarnish. The answer lay in the deserted ore mines below our feet. Many years ago these made Raasay an important centre of employment. As a stark reminder of the lost industry some of the old mine buildings remain but in a ruined state.

The Commodores were obviously rather disorientated in this unfamiliar land. Resting on a rock by the shore and idly discussing the terrain they noted a bulky edifice further along the shoreline which, one postulated, was a lighthouse - until it moved! In fact, the mobile Raasay lighthouse turned out to be Mr Large, one of the Commodores own numbers. Shocked by this mis-identification the Commodores refrained from visiting the ship’s ‘ wee room underneath the stair’ for at least another half an hour.

WAVERLEY's whistle beckoned us back aboard but it was with some reluctance that we filed back up the far-travelled red gangway. Most of Raasay's population seemed to join the vessel for her onward sailing to Kyle (where numbers rose to over 700) and on through Kylerhea into Loch Hourn for the first time. One the return voyage in brilliant evening sunshine we became aware, as we rounded the southern tip of Raasay, of a line of cars snaking its way along the island's narrow shore road, intently following our progress. A traffic queue on Raasay, this is surely unheard of before. Soon we were back at the pier and the natives went ashore. They lined the pier and gave us a tremendous send-off, a genuine farewell and bon voyage. Raasay was possibly the highlight of the entire 1988 programme; it would be nice to return some day. WAVERLEY returned to Portree at the end of another successful day.

The Commodores spent a convivial evening at the Royal Hotel, where a certain Jacobite Prince of some note had stayed a few years earlier. The hospitality of the locals is legendary and the Commodores could certainly confirm this next morning as they delicately prepared to beat the retreat!

Friday 6th May was the last day of the 1988 programme and the ship took her farewell of Portree, sailing via the Sound of Raasay to Kyle where the Commodores and package tour passengers boarded a special coach for a grand run via Fort William and Glencoe to Glasgow. We set off with a wave from the skipper and twisted our necks to get a view of the paddler as she left Kyle pier for her rather slower return to her native city. En route she was to make yet another first Hebridean port of call, this time at Armadale where her Portree passengers left her for a coach return through Skye. After taking water WAVERLEY left at 1435. She arrived at the Esso Terminal at Bowling fourteen and a half hours later. The 1988 West Highland visit had been the longest and most extensive to date and, with 1984, the most enjoyable. There were high hopes for new adventures in 1989.

By Salen and Salen

The 1989 visit started on Friday 28th April with a conventional Ayr - Port Ellen -Oban sailing followed on the Saturday by another Oban - Tobermory - Staffa cruise whilst Sunday saw Fort William's first cruise of the year, a return to Loch Sween after a gap of four years. Monday 1st May should have been a repeat of the traditional sailing by the Ross of Mull to Iona but the weather forecast for that day was not very good. The strong winds and tides in prospect were likely to cause a strong swell in the Sound of Iona, making the ferry landing too much of a risk. So when the steamer left Oban she headed up the comparatively sheltered waters of the Sound of Mull passing Salen and continuing on into Loch Sunart. With much more time to spare on this visit to the long loch the ship continued farther into its reach than most of us could remember being previously. She sailed on past another Salen and Laudale House. Unfortunately, the heavy cloud layer prevented us from seeing the peak of Ben Resipol. Then we turned into the cold wind and the arrival of a tray full of glasses of the water of life, supplied by the Saint Ivel Commodore, also known as ‘Third Funnel’, who was famed for his concern for the well being and internal satisfaction of his colleagues, was welcomed with fervour! When we reached the mouth of the loch we headed straight across to Tobermory, a lively ten minutes with the swell on the beam. Her considerable complement spent an enjoyable hour ashore providing an unexpected and welcome bonus for the town's restaurants, shops and pubs.

Next day she was off for maintenance at the North Pier but on Wednesday 3rd May we rose again, bright and early, for a repeat of the Oban-Portree sailing of exactly 52 weeks earlier. Almost unbelievably, the weather at Oban was even better than it had been the previous year and as we headed past Lismore in brilliant sunshine we knew that another superb day was in prospect. It was noted, however, that we were not able to see Barra as we rounded Ardnamurchan on that occasion. The cruise itinerary was similar to that in 1988 except that, on leaving Kyle, instead of heading out round the Crowlins, we stayed close to the south shore of Loch Carron. After a close view of Plockton Bay, we penetrated the narrow channel at Strome Ferry to enter inner Loch Carron. We turned off Ardnarff and WAVERLEY had another West Highland sea-loch 'under her belting'. She sailed back through the narrows at Strome, where a ferry crossed the loch until the road around it was constructed in the sixties, then rounded the headland that separates the lochs of Carron and Kishorn and continues out to sea as a small archipelago of rocky islets. The vessel delicately picked her way though these and continued for a short distance towards Kishorn before turning back for Kyle and Mallaig. The remainder of the day was without incident but, as we sailed up the Sound of Raasay that night, we noted that the sky was much clearer and lighter than a year earlier and the evening sunshine illuminated the crystal clear Cuillin hills, casting dark shadows into the deep glens and corries. It was not much warmer than a year earlier but most passengers stayed on deck to absorb as much of the beauty of the Cuillin as their memories would allow. It is not often in one lifetime that visitors will see those marvellous mountains in such clarity. Opposite, rocky Dun Caan reflected the orange sunset and soon we were back in Portree Harbour just as the gloaming was lost.

WAVERLEY rested; the next day would be a most significant one in her long history.

Across the Minch

At just after 0600 on Thursday 4th May, 1989 WAVERLEY reversed away from the pier at Portree, sailing light as she did not have a passenger certificate for that part of her highland tour. Whilst her package tour passengers and Commodores were not aboard most were awake and watching the vessel's departure - some did not even have to leave their bedrooms to do that! The paddler was off on her first ever sailing across the Minch, the famous stretch of water that separates the Scottish Mainland and the Inner Hebrides from the Long Island of the Outer Hebrides. Cross the Minch and enter a different culture. WAVERLEY sailed around the north of Skye then set a course towards the high hills of Harris, her destination being the port of Tarbert. About four hours after leaving Portree she slid gently alongside Tarbert pier for the first time. Regular paddle steamer sailings to Tarbert, Harris ceased in the early years of the present century but the last known call by a paddler was made by PIONEER in 1943 when she performed wartime livestock sailings. Therefore, WAVERLEY's visit to Tarbert (Harris) was indeed a special occasion, all the more so when one remembered the vessel's sheltered upbringing forty-two years earlier in the waters of Loch Long and Loch Goil. Who in Inglis shipyard in 1946 could have realised that the new paddler on the stocks would have been voyaging to the Outer Hebrides almost half a century later? In making this visit to that Tarbert, WAVERLEY joined a fairly small group of vessels in the history of Clyde and West Highland steamboats that have called at both Tarbert (Loch Fyne) and Tarbert (Harris). WAVERLEY's wooden 'fan-board' only says 'Tarbert', so the same one was used for both ports. Sailings from most West Highland ports, especially those in the Outer Hebrides, have, in the past, been mainly mailboat services or long distance coastal service. With the exception of Oban and Fort William, day excursion work has been virtually unknown. So when WAVERLEY left Tarbert (Harris) with a good loading of schoolchildren for a day excursion to North Uist it was a unique happening. Her lucky charm for first calls in the Western Isles was much in evidence, the skies were blue and the sun shone brightly.

Meanwhile, the Commodores were in hot pursuit; having caught the bus from Portree to Uig they were now half way across the Little Minch aboard the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry HEBRIDEAN ISLES. WAVERLEY's course down East Loch Tarbert took her through Kyles Scalpay before she turned south to head for the Uist and she sailed in front of the HEBRIDEAN ISLES about two miles distant. As a considerable number of the passengers aboard the ferry were following the paddler the word spread around the ship and soon there was a considerable number of 'zoom lenses' on the open forward deck of the ferry photographing the WAVERLEY and the hills of South Harris in the background. WAVERLEY carried on to Lochmaddy on North Uist where, like Tarbert, paddle steamers had been a rare sight in the twentieth century. In the meantime the Commodores were treated to a bone-shaking trip by 'antique' coach from Tarbert to the island Capital of Stornoway, stopping to deposit a well known Geordie duo in a most unlikely place in the middle of nowhere. At Stornoway some of the number made a mad dash to the pier to catch the CalMac ferry SUILVEN for her afternoon return sailing to Ullapool --- steamer nutters at their very best! The Commodore, known sometimes as Kermit, on the other hand, managed to acquire some transport and drive back through Lewis and Harris to Tarbert in time to witness and photograph WAVERLEY's return from Lochmaddy which was in brilliant sunshine. Also witnessing the scene from the high hill on the opposite shore of the loch from the steamer pier was an elderly Australian visitor who had, in fact, emigrated to the Antipodes from Harris at an early age. He was very surprised to learn that his first visit 'home' coincided with the first visit of the world's Last Sea-going Paddler, he thought that she called there on a regular basis! Kermit enlightened him. After disembarking her passengers WAVERLEY reversed away from the pier for a long, light sailing back around the northern tip of Skye to Kyle where she arrived in the evening to bunker (take fuel). One of the problems in operating the ship in Hebridean waters is that the type of heavy oil that she burns in her twin-furnace Babcock boiler is not available locally in that area. It has to be brought over long distances to the mainland ports of Oban or Kyle and the ship has to make long, light sailings, usually overnight, to connect with these deliveries.

Reversing away from the pier at Tarbert, WAVERLEY encountered HEBRIDEAN ISLES in the narrow East Loch, surely the first meeting of two passenger vessels in the loch for many years. After bunkering at Kyle WAVERLEY left around midnight to head back up the Inner Sound and across the Minch to make her first ever call at Stornoway, the largest town in the Hebrides. Few people witnessed her arrival there as it took place at around 0500 on Friday May 5th and marked the end of a very long and tiring spell of duty for the crew, the vessel having sailed almost continuously since she had left Portree twenty-three hours earlier.

After only a brief rest, the vessel was ready for another mainly schools (and Commodores) cruise from Stornoway. By 1000 she was well filled and reversing away from her berth on the opposite side of the pier from SUILVEN. She left the harbour astern of the ferry and, after rounding Arnish Point, she headed south along the lonely east coast of Lewis, giving good views of the many sea-lochs that cut into the island. Once past Kebock Head she continued her southerly course, pulling away from the island but drawing closer to the little archipelago known as the Shiant Isles which lie in the Minch between Harris and Skye. On reaching these deserted islands she performed a clockwise circumnavigation of the group allowing her passengers grand views of the former settlements on the principal island of Eilean an Tighe (the island of the house). This cruise offered an unprecedented opportunity to view these islands at close quarters as sailings by passenger ships in that area of the Minch are not very common. The return sailing to Stornoway was by the same route as the outward voyage. Whilst sitting on the upper deck with hundreds of schoolkids milling around, the Commodores realised that the 'mayhem' of a schools cruise is the same UK-wide. Only the accents change!

The Loch Erisort Ceilidh

After a brief period of rest at Stornoway pier (the Commodores bunkered in a local hotel) another onslaught descended on the hard worked vessel and her ever-patient crew. Buses, taxis, coaches and cars converged on the pier head from such far-flung places as Shader, Barvas and Bayble and, by the time Captain Neill rang down to take the vessel astern from the pier, over 600 people were aboard for a grand evening ceilidh cruise. The locals were intent on making it a night to remember and the songs and music of Gaeldom filled the ship's Jeanie Deans Lounge where it is more common to hear 'Sailing up the Clyde' or 'Land of my Fathers'. For the enthusiasts aboard the highlight of the evening came when the vessel's bow was brought round to starboard and she entered yet another West Highland sea-loch - Loch Erisort, a long and narrow stretch of water that penetrates deep into the mainland of Lewis. By now her list of such lochs was impressive - Sween, Crinan, Craignish, Melfort, Sunart, Linnhe, Eil, Hourn, Carron, Kishorn, East Tarbert and Erisort - but surely the latter was the most unlikely to have ever been visited by a Clyde steamer. Indeed, one wondered if a vessel of WAVERLEY's size has ever before sailed in Loch Erisort. At first the loch appears wide but the vessel has to change course regularly to thread her way between the many little rocks and islands. Gradually the loch straightens and narrows between the hills. WAVERLEY kept on into its inner reaches much to the fascination of those on board; we wondered how far we could go. After passing the little hamlet of Keose, Captain Neill swung the bows over to starboard in the slight widening of the loch just short of Valtos. even here the loch was too narrow for the vessel to swing round in one arc. As her bows approached the northern shore 'astern' was rung down and she stopped and slowly came astern then, as her stern approached the southern shore, 'ahead' rang down and, with the wheel hard to starboard, she swept round and was off down the loch as the twilight gathered. When WAVERLEY sailed out of Loch Erisort she turned south and, for the second time that day, headed for the Shiants but this time she turned off Loch Shell and returned to Stornoway. When she arrived back there the party was still in full swing and many of the revellers were rather reluctant to leave.

The Commodores were amazed at the liveliness of the Lewis capital when they went ashore and felt obliged to sample the local culture. With an early rise next day, it may not have been one of their most astute decisions.

By Trodday to Skye

Next morning (Saturday May 6th) the sun shone brightly as WAVERLEY lay at the east pier in Stornoway harbour awaiting her small number or regulars and a few locals for a quite remarkable day excursion that would take her all the way from Stornoway to Kylerhea. Reversing out of the harbour she bade farewell to Stornoway and retraced her wake down the coast of Lewis. This time, after passing Kebock Head, she kept closer to the Harris coast in a south-westerly direction. Far astern a large light could be seen in the sky and eventually it caught up with the ship. It belonged to the Search and Rescue Flight of Stornoway Coastguard. The Coastguard requested Captain Neill's permission to land crew on WAVERLEY's poop deck and, over the next half hour, several landings and lifts were undertaken, much to the enjoyment of the ship's complement - although the noise of the aircraft's engines and rotors did cause great discomfort for Third Funnel who did not appreciate its presence. A regular passenger who was also a press photographer for a leading title turned noticeably pale when it was suggested that he should go up ‘on the wire’ for an exclusive. He retired quickly below! Eventually the helicopter withdrew and headed back to base whilst WAVERLEY forged on at a steady fifteen knots. After crossing the mouth of Loch Seaforth, the vessel entered the narrow Sound of Scalpay between Harris and the prosperous little Island of Scalpay, passing Kyles Scalpay and giving a good view of the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry KILBRANNAN at the slipway. A short time later she was alongside Tarbert pier at the end of the first passenger sailing between Stornoway and Tarbert in very many years A few more passengers joined the ship at Tarbert before she set off on the totally unique part of the cruise. Contrary to the regulations pertaining a few days earlier, WAVERLEY had a limited passenger certificate for her return sailing across the Minch. So, when she left the East Loch, a course was set towards Rudha Hunish, the most northerly point on the Isle of Skye. Although the skies were a little overcast, the atmosphere was very clear and we had great views across to the hills of Northern Skye and to the Shiants which were standing out boldly against the blue sky to the north. Gradually the hills of Harris receded as those on Skye grew nearer and, about seventy minutes after leaving Tarbert, WAVERLEY passed the Fladda-Chuain and Lord MacDonald's Table, sailing into the sound between Eilean Trodday and Skye. A local was heard to remark that he had not thought that he would ever sail past Trodday on a steamer again. Most of us had never done it before!

Rounding the Aird, WAVERLEY turned south, passing the villages of Flodigarry and Staffin and the Kilt Rock beyond. The view to the east was very clear and, remarkably, the distinctive shape of Slioch, the 3215-feet high mountain on the far side of lovely Loch Maree, could be seen from the ships upper deck. This is a distance of thirty five miles but somehow it never occurred to us that one could see Slioch from a steamer off the north of Skye. Farther south the three Munros that form the northern side of Glen Torridon - Beinn Alligin, Liathach and Beinn Eighe - merged into a single massive range. Eventually WAVERLEY passed into the northern end of the Sound of Raasay, the lonely Isle of Rona with its secret naval base forming the eastern boundary. The western edge is formed by the spectacular coastline of Trotternish with its most famous feature, the rock pinnacle of the Old Man of Storr stretching heavenwards. All too soon we were rounding Rubha na h-Airde Glaise and entering Portree Harbour which was basking in brilliant sunshine. It was very low water at Portree pier (the keel could not have been far off the bottom) but there was time for us to struggle ashore with luggage and book into our overnight accommodation before continuing the cruise. Leaving us at Portree were the locals from Stornoway and Tarbert who were then returning home by coaches and the HEBRIDEAN ISLES via Uig. They had participated in what must be one of the most unusual return day excursions ever to have been operated off Scotland's West Coast. WAVERLEY cruised on in superb weather conditions to Raasay and Kyle, continuing as far as Kylerhea before returning to Portree. At 2000 the Commodores and tour passengers disembarked at Portree pier, slightly weary but with a great sense of satisfaction at having participated in such an unusual and spectacular excursion which must rank amongst the ship's best ever. It was all the more enjoyable in that it was completed in perfect weather conditions. We lingered on the pier for the day was not yet over for the 'Mighty Paddler'. She had to return to Kyle for bunkers and, as she reversed away from the pier, the setting sun cast a soft pink tinge across her white upperworks and the edges of the few light clouds in the sky. A perfect view to end a memorable day.

The next morning, Sunday May 7th, 1989 we were up in time to see WAVERLEY arrive back at Portree (she having spent the night at Kyle). Again the weather was tremendous as we headed down to Kyle, through Kylerhea and the Sound of Sleat to Mallaig. Leaving the latter port in blistering sunshine, with over 800 passengers aboard, she entered the spectacular waters of Loch Nevis for the first time, her thirteenth (but certainly not unlucky) West Highland sea-loch. Hugging the North Morar shore WAVERLEY continued on past Tarbet before swinging round just before the shallow narrows at Kylesmorar and heading seaward along the Knoydart shore, sweeping through Inverie Bay, and back to Mallaig. At this point the Commodores departed for a very enjoyable train journey along the West Highland line to Fort William and over Rannoch Moor to Glasgow. WAVERLEY returned to Portree then rounded the north of Skye again for an unscheduled extra schools next day cruise from Lochmaddy round the Shiants and through the Sound of Scalpay to Tarbert. After returning to Lochmaddy she departed there at 1720 for Oban. She spent the night at Oban and refuelled there before setting off for the Clyde, arriving back at Anderston Quay in the early hours of Wednesday 10th May.

A Day to Forget

WAVERLEY's 1990 season started with a conventional Ayr-Port Ellen-Oban sailing on Friday 29th April, this being followed by an unusual Oban-Tobermory-Armadale sailing the following day. That cruise attracted great attention but was spoiled by terrible weather, one of the few bad days that the steamer had in her first decade of West Highland sailings. We rounded Ardnamurchan but could not even see the lighthouse let alone the surrounding islands. Only the long drone of the foghorn confirmed our position. At Armadale we filed ashore, half-heartedly, for photographs of the ship in the murky conditions. WAVERLEY circled the bay whilst the ferry IONA occupied the pier. The younger and more agile Commodores risked life and limb on the slippy foreshore to photograph the unique occasion. Surprisingly, Kermit encountered great difficulties extracting himself from a slippy hole into which he fell during that important mission. His companions, Saint Winning and the Michelin Commodore (Retd), were of little help to him. They were incapacitated by fits of glee at his predicament! Truly, it was a very forgettable day and we were all glad to see the lights of Oban as we rounded the northern tip of Kerrera. After disembarking her passengers at the North Pier WAVERLEY moved over to the other side of the bay, spending the night at the pier normally occupied by the Commissioners of Northern Lights tender ship FINGAL. This was her first visit to that berth and completed her trio of Oban piers.

On Sunday April 29th the ship headed north from Oban to Fort William continuing on for her second sailing in Loch Eil (the first being six years earlier). Most of those aboard had never sailed in Loch Eil before so the experience of sailing through the narrow channel just west of Corpach into the wide loch beyond was very enjoyable, especially as the weather had improved considerably from the misty conditions of Oban. WAVERLEY continued past the well-known Outward Bound centre near Lochielside Station, turning just short of the fish farms off Kinlocheil. On the return sailing she diverted north of the small islands to the east of the narrows to pass close by the old steamer pier at Corpach and the entrance to Neptune's Staircase, the vast flight of locks that form the southern access to the Caledonian Canal, the seaway through Scotland. The return to Oban was completed in continuously improving conditions and, for the first time, an evening cruise in Loch Linnhe was attended by very mild conditions.

Arriving back at Oban Captain Neill swung the vessel round in the bay to berth 'starboard side to' at the North Pier, a very unusual manoeuvre which he had also performed the previous evening. This type of berthing was possible because there were fewer vessels than normal at the pier that year. The advantage was that departures were very quick and easy, eliminating the need for the long astern departure towards Kerrera. However, historically, it is very unusual for a paddle steamer to berth 'bows out' at Oban North Pier.

Bay of the Castle

WAVERLEY's cruise from Oban on Monday April 30th was cancelled due to low numbers and to enable the ship to be prepared for her first visit to the southern Outer Hebrides. Meanwhile, an advance party of Commodores set off on the overnight voyage by CalMac's new ferry LORD OF THE ISLES to Barra. They were seen off by a Commodore, sometimes known as ‘the Slosh’ and rarely seen above deck in daylight. He seemed rather confused by the ferry’s mooring lines and almost cast off his colleagues prematurely! As we left the Railway Pier at 0030 on the Monday, unusually warm winds wafted across the bay, whilst WAVERLEY rested in darkness at the North Pier. The five hour voyage across the Sea of the Hebrides was very gentle and, as dawn broke, we approached Bagh a' Chaisteil - Castle Bay - which lends its name to Barra's principal settlement. Slowly the 'Lord' swung round into the linkspan and we went ashore on one of the Hebrides' most 'enchanted isles'. The early morning haze hung heavily on Barra's main peaks - Heaval and Ben Tangaval - but therein lay the promise of a fine day ahead.

After catching up on some lost sleep, the Commodores woke in mid morning as the warming sunshine began to burn away the haze. We toured the little island and saw Barra at its best; brilliant sunshine and clear blue, green Atlantic waves rolling onto the beautiful white sand beaches between Doirlinn Head and Scurrival Point. We visited the Traigh Mhor to see Barra's famous airstrip and stayed to watch the flight depart for Glasgow. When we returned to Castlebay we noted Sir Harry Secombe completing a 'Highway' television programme with the island's priest. It was all happening on Barra that week - Harry Secombe and the WAVERLEY! As dusk set on the silent township, with the steep sides of Kishmul Castle silhouetted against the still water, all talk of the Barra schoolkids was of the impending arrival of the world's last sea-going paddler, although they managed to remonstrate with Commodore Saint Winning for his stated support for a football team based in the north of Glasgow compared to their stated preference for the team from Paradise. As we retired that night there was much anticipation in the air.

WAVERLEY left Oban at around 2200 on Monday 30th April and, just as April was turning to May, emerged from the northern end of the Sound of Mull for her first ever voyage across the Sea of the Hebrides, a light sailing as she did not have a passenger certificate for the exposed sailing of some fifty miles. Her good luck with West Highland weather was holding and, after a quiet sailing, WAVERLEY dropped anchor in Castle Bay at 0330 on Tuesday 1st May; the beat of the paddlewheel had not been heard there in living memory. In fact, Castlebay and the southern ports of the 'Long island' had never been served regularly by paddle steamers although a paddler named St CLAIR OF THE ISLES had called there occasionally in the years before 1875 but calls in the twentieth century are unknown. So WAVERLEY joined a very small band of paddle vessels to have visited Barra. It seemed likely that she would be the last paddle steamer to be seen in those parts.

As dawn broke, the sun quickly dispersed any remaining haze and by 0600 I was wide awake and happily strolling around the bay to record the superb scene. WAVERLEY's red, white and black colours reflected the bright morning sunshine and contrasted sharply with the deep blue waters and light blue skies. the bulk of Kishmul and the brightly coloured houses of the village together with the green hills of the Isle of Vatersay in the background completed a simply perfect picture. In complement of this visual feast there was not a sound to be heard or even a breath of wind; the peace was complete. Gradually Barra awoke from its slumbers and more of the islanders gathered to see WAVERLEY in the bay.

At around 1000 she weighed anchor and slowly glided across the still waters to berth at the pier for the first time. An hour later she departed with a slightly disappointing total of about 250 passengers aboard. However, considering that the island's population is only about 1300 and that many of them were away at the fishing, the total is perhaps all that could be expected. The route took us northwards along the east coast of Barra, crossing the Sound of Barra, passing Eriskay and into Loch Boisdale.

Old Friends in Uist

Just after noon, WAVERLEY berthed at the old mailboat pier at Lochboisdale for the first time. No one could remember the last time that a paddle steamer had been there and many South Uist folk were there to greet us. A number of WAVERLEY's long-serving crew members - bo'sun Roddy McIssac and seaman Donald McKinnon, - were natives of South Uist and, after their many voyages around Britain on WAVERLEY they had finally brought her 'home'. Many of their friends were on the pier to exchange some stories with them and admire their fine vessel. There was also a special visitor to Lochboisdale that day, an octogenarian passenger from Barra who had never left his native island before that day. When he stepped off WAVERLEY's gangway onto Uist soil it was the only other part of the world that he had ever stood upon - WAVERLEY has a knack for making people break old habits!

A warm but strong east wind was blowing up the loch as the ship eased slowly astern along the face of the pier and warped herself around the 'new' dolphin, pointing her bows seaward past the northern shore of Gasay Island. A stern first departure into the wind, given the vessel's limited astern steering, would have made it difficult to negotiate a course past Gasay. She retraced her way to Castlebay and, on a perfect evening, left that port for a non-landing ceilidh cruise, unfortunately with only about a hundred passengers aboard. However, the atmosphere in the Jeanie Deans Lounge was of a typical Gaelic party as we left the Sound of Vatersay and passed close to the steep sided island of Muldoanich, sailing south to the limit of the passenger certificate before turning north along the Barra shoreline and back into Castlebay. We were followed into the bay by the luxury cruise ship HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS, the former CalMac ferry COLUMBA and she anchored in the bay for the night whilst WAVERLEY disembarked her small complement at the pier. She had arrived back about thirty minutes early but the ceilidh continued until the scheduled arrival time and a queue of fishing vessels formed to land their catches when WAVERLEY had left. After 2300 WAVERLEY headed off into the darkness, passing the 'Princess', and sailed on to Loch Boisdale where she anchored between Calvay and Gasay.

By Uist to the Loch of the Sea-Wolves

Early next morning, Wednesday May 2nd, the Commodores joined the LORD OF THE ISLES at 0530 at Castlebay pier to sail on to Lochboisdale. Sailing up that loch just after 0700 we were rewarded with a magnificent view of the WAVERLEY lying at anchor in the warm sunshine, waiting to move into the pier when the 'Lord' had sailed at 0815 for Oban. Also aboard the ferry were other Commodores and tour passengers who had sailed from Oban at 0030. Their day was to be a long one as it would not end until they reached Stornoway at 2200 that night. On departing from Lochboisdale WAVERLEY headed back to Castlebay where she arrived in scorching heat (it was over 80^oF ashore) to find the HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS occupying the pier. After a few minutes she moved off to anchor, allowing WAVERLEY to become the third passenger carrying vessel to call at Castlebay that day, surely an all time record. The paddler allowed her 400 passengers a pleasant, if rather overheated, hour ashore (even the tarmac was melting in Castlebay's 'main' street resulting in traction difficulties for one Commodore in his haste to sample the local ‘culture’) then took her farewell of Barra for the last time. She was sailing on a very unusual roster that took her from Castlebay back to Lochboisdale then on to Lochmaddy and Tarbert before crossing light to Portree. The sailing from Lochboisdale to Lochmaddy must be quite unique but the descending evening haze obscured much of the low lying islands to the west. As she approached the North Uist port, WAVERLEY passed through the narrow channel between the main island and Madadh Mor, the Great Sea Wolf, into Loch nam Madadh, the Loch of the Sea-wolves. The twin peaks of the North Lee and the South Lee stood out like vast pyramids on the otherwise very flat landscape. The evening sunshine picked out every crevice and feature of the two hills. Reversing out of the pier WAVERLEY headed for Weaver's Point en route to Harris and, eventually, Skye.

Some of the Commodores spent that night at Lochmaddy, before rising early next morning, another fine day, to catch the HEBRIDEAN ISLES to Uig and Tarbert. The rest of the day was spent on a land-based exploration of Lewis with an unplanned Commodorial re-union at the Butt of Lewis, where certain Commodores revealed a dislike for such elevated places and even a swim of sorts in the Minch at Port of Ness beach. Meanwhile, WAVERLEY was operating a schools cruise from Portree to Kyle and Mallaig, on completion of which she headed overnight to Stornoway. Her second year of visiting Stornoway may have qualified her as a regular visitor. The last regular paddle steamer to call at the Lewis capital was the MacBrayne mailboat GAEL which last called in 1921.

The Invasion of Tarbert

On Friday May 4th, 1990 WAVERLEY operated her second schools cruise from Stornoway. Her popularity in Lewis was evident with 835 passengers aboard on that sailing, only seven short of her Class III passenger certificate limit. Her destination on that occasion was Tarbert where she arrived two and a half hours after leaving Stornoway having sailed through Kyles Scalpay. The little town of Tarbert was invaded by a vast army of schoolkids who swarmed over the hills like ants and formed a line outside the only sweet shop like a queue for pop concert tickets! The shopkeeper was inundated and eventually shut up shop! It is highly unlikely that over 800 people have ever disembarked at Tarbert, Harris from one ship before and it seems even less likely that it will ever happen again. After an hour ashore the hoards reboarded (miraculously nobody seemed to be left behind) for the return to Stornoway, the Commodores seeking refuge from their more 'energetic' shipmates in the bar. An evening cruise from Stornoway, with over 600 passengers aboard, took her around the Shiants before she returned to the Lewis capital at 2215. Again the revellers were reluctantly disembarked and the ship left for a remarkably quick overnight voyage to Oban, arriving nine and a half hours later at 0830 on Saturday 5th May.

She spent most of the day off service at the North Pier whilst the Commodores caught up by sailing on the early morning ferry run by SUILVEN to Ullapool followed by a drive via Inverness and Fort William to Oban. In the evening WAVERLEY operated a lightly loaded ceilidh cruise from Oban around Lismore and Kerrera, heading out via the Lynn of Lorne and returning by the Lynn of Morvern, interestingly sailing through the bays on the west coast of Lismore. Unfortunately, the good weather of earlier in the week had deserted us and rather heavy rain showers dampened our spirits.

Her sailing on Sunday 6th May took her from Fort William and Oban to the Isles of the Sea, an interesting sailing in boisterous conditions. Next day, WAVERLEY operated the now traditional May holiday sailing to Iona but on that occasion the morning connection from Fort William was omitted and the ship sailed to Iona as a Round Mull excursion, as had the KING GEORGE V for so many years. A call was made at Tobermory on the way out and, when passing Staffa, Captain Neill made a close approach to the southern shore of the island and the famous Fingal's Cave. The return to Oban from Iona was by the Ross of Mull, the Tobermory passengers returning by ferry and coach via Fionnphort.

From the Sound of Shiant to the Straits of Dover

When WAVERLEY left the Western Isles in 1990 she completed a decade of sailings in the area. Since the first, rather abortive, venture in 1981 she had visited 17 ports of call in the area including most of the main ferry ports and some forgotten piers, many of which had not seen a paddle steamer for forty years (and, in some cases much longer.) She had visited 10 Hebridean islands and sailed round many more. She had sailed in 15 mainland and island sea-lochs, many of which had not seen a large passenger ship of any type for many years, if ever before. She had traversed the famous, sometimes infamous Minch several times, once with a privileged, small complement of passengers. The highlights of the first decade were the first Four Lochs sailing in 1984, the first Oban-Portree sailing in 1988, the unique sailing from Stornoway and Tarbert to Portree and beyond in 1989 and the most memorable visits to Raasay and Castlebay in 1988 and 1990, respectively. However, it is unfair to select highlights as almost the entire number of sailings were superbly enjoyable and memorable. The magnificent scenery and character of the Western Highlands and Islands contributed much to the experience. They were the perfect foil to the unique atmosphere of sailing aboard the WAVERLEY.

Whilst the ship had been quite ubiquitous in her first West Highland decade there were still some ports and islands that she had not visited. In 1989, it had been intended that she would visit the Island of Gigha on her sailing round the Mull of Kintyre to Oban but this was thwarted by passenger certificate restrictions due to the distance from Ayr. Similarly, distances and certificate limitations (together with limited populations) had so far precluded calls at Bruichladdich, Port Askaig, Craighouse, Colonsay, Coll, Tiree, Uig and Ullapool. Whilst she had passed Lochaline on numerable occasions she had never called at that pier and, after the chance of a diversionary call at Lismore in 1983, no further attempts were made to visit that island.

On completion of her first decade WAVERLEY sailed from Oban at 1800 on Tuesday 8th May, 1990, proceeding direct to Milford Haven in Wales then on round Land's End to Weymouth, arriving there forty-seven hours after leaving Oban. She would spend the next few weeks in the very different waters of the English Channel and would visit the waters off the beaches of Dunkirk where her illustrious predecessor had gallantly served, fifty years earlier. On 24th May WAVERLEY was off the French coast, over eight hundred miles from Stornoway at the other end of her wide field of operation, where she had been sailing just three weeks earlier. Never in the history of the British coastal excursion paddle steamer had a vessel had such a wide and varied career.

The Second Decade

The publication of Waverley Excursions Ltd's 1991 schedule revealed that no new ports were to be in the vessel's West Highland programme that year. As expected the rather poorly patronised sailings from Castlebay, Lochboisdale and Lochmaddy were not to be repeated that year. One may have suspected that the repetitive nature of the timetable may have reduced interest in the visit but that was not the case. For the first time in the West Highlands, Captain Neill was not in charge of the vessel, he having swapped commands with Captain Steve Mishel, master of Waverley Excursions' other historic cruise vessel, the BALMORAL. However, Captain Mishel was no stranger to West Highland waters having served as Chief Officer aboard WAVERLEY during her visits in the period 1982-85. In addition he had navigated BALMORAL through those waters on several occasions whilst she was circumnavigating Britain. To date BALMORAL had not called at any West Highland ports.

WAVERLEY's first West Highland sailing was a rather unusual one, the round the Mull section from Ayr being operated as a light sailing as far as Crinan where the vessel anchored off overnight. The following day (Tuesday 30th April) the ship picked up local schoolchildren at Crinan before continuing on to Oban, Fort William and Loch Eil, finishing back at Oban at 2200 after an evening return sailing to Crinan. Next day, Wednesday 1st May, she repeated the popular sailing from Oban round Ardnamurchan to Mallaig and Kyle. As on the two previous occasions (1888 and 1989) she left Oban in glorious sunshine, following in the wake of LORD OF THE ISLES which had left 50 minutes late on her Coll and Tiree sailing. Obviously trying to make up lost time, the 'Lord' sped away and the paddler made no attempt to keep up but the two vessels met again as the paddler reached the mouth of Tobermory Bay. The ferry was emerging from the bay after her call there and the two vessels sailed on parallel courses for a short time until round Rubha nan Gall whence there routes diverged. On rounding Ardnamurchan, fine clear views of the Small Isles and Skye were obtained, a reminder of the tremendous day in 1988 when we first performed that sailing.

At Mallaig WAVERLEY berthed at the end of the round dolphin of the outer breakwater; the CalMac ferry IONA was in the harbour and her master took some interest in the paddler's exchange of passengers. On leaving Mallaig WAVERLEY continued up the Sound of Sleat, through Kylerhea to Kyle and onwards into Loch Carron where she met the HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS for the first time in 1991. She was at anchor in Plockton Bay, allowing her passengers time ashore in the picturesque little village. WAVERLEY continued on through the narrows at Kylestrome and on up Loch Carron farther than on her previous visit, not turning until she had Lochcarron village almost on the beam. On the way back she diverted into Loch Kishorn before returning to Kyle. Problems with fuel deliveries in the West Highlands in 1991 meant that WAVERLEY would not be able to continue to Portree that evening (her Kyle - Mallaig- Portree -Kyle- Stornoway itinerary being changed to Kyle-Mallaig-Kyle-Stornoway with bunkers being taken at Kyle on the second call at Kyle.) So, many of the Commodores departed at 1630 to catch the service bus to Portree. This gave the 'bonus' of a final sailing aboard the Kyle ferry KYLEAKIN which was soon to be withdrawn and replaced by the new ferries LOCH DUNVEGAN and LOCH FYNE, then under construction on the Clyde. As we crossed on the ferry, WAVERLEY pulled away from Kyle pier providing an excellent photograph. On Thursday 2nd May WAVERLEY repeated her Stornoway-Tarbert schools cruise of a year earlier and in the evening she did a ceilidh cruise to the Lewis lochs. The number of passengers on these two cruises was lower than in previous years, partly because they were on a Thursday rather than Friday. The Commodores were unable to devise a way of connecting with these sailings and spent the day sailing on the HEBRIDEAN ISLES, first to Tarbert from Uig, then a return sailing to Lochmaddy. As we left Tarbert to return to Uig we had a distant view of the paddler inward bound to Tarbert on the other side of Scalpay.

After completing her Stornoway sailings, WAVERLEY sailed light, overnight to Skye, anchoring in the Sound of Raasay just north of Portree Bay. At 0900 on the Friday she weighed anchor and moved into Portree pier to pick up a relatively small number of passengers for a cruise to Kyle, Mallaig, Loch Nevis and Loch Hourn. Unfortunately, this was a dull, wet day and little was seen of the grand hills around the lochs. The Commodores jumped ship at Mallaig to travel by train and specially arranged minibus to Oban while the ship returned to Portree, disembarked her passengers and set off on another overnight sailing, arriving at anchor off Kerrera in the early hours of Saturday 4th May.

Sunshine and Skye

She was berthed at the North Pier by 0930 and left with a good loading for a sailing up the Sound of Mull and round Ardnamurchan to Armadale. Unlike the previous year's sailing, the weather was terrific and Captain Mishel took the vessel close to the east side of the Island of Eigg giving superb views of the Sgurr and the mountains of Rum beyond. Another departure from the previous year was that the ship operated a cruise, her first, from Armadale in the Sound of Sleat. A stiff northerly breeze made for a bracing sailing along the coast of Sleat, the ship turning after giving a good view of the lighthouse on Isle Ornsay. Across the Sound the hills around Loch Hourn were clear and magnificent, so different from the previous day. At Armadale WAVERLEY re-embarked her passengers and took delivery of a fine new mooring rope before vacating the berth just as the car ferry IONA was approaching. Across the Sound, the houses of Mallaigvaig stood out clearly against the green hillside in the evening sunlight. The return sailing was even more enjoyable than the outward one as we were the going 'with the wind'. The high spots were the views of the white sands over on the Morar shore, the wonderful close view of the rocky Point of Ardnamurchan, with its lighthouse towering over us and the beautiful sunset astern of the ship in the Sound of Mull, a great feature of that area in fine evenings. LORD OF THE ISLES passed us close to Kilchoan on her way to the Outer Isles.

Next day WAVERLEY was still having fuel delivery problems so her light sailing to Fort William, where she was due to start her cruise, was cancelled and she lay at Oban whilst her Fort William passengers were brought to Oban by coach. Back on schedule she left Oban with 807 passengers aboard, just 35 short of her certificate limit; her best loading of the 1991 West Highland programme. The cruise was to the Four Lochs and Corryvreckan but, as a fuel conservation measure, she did not sail into Loch Craignish, a disappointment to those of us who knew the features of that fine loch. Back at Oban, with the assurance of fuel supplies by next day, the vessel continued on an evening return cruise to Fort William. By that time Fort William pier housed a seafood restaurant very close to the berthing face and the diners that evening were obviously rather surprised to find a 690-ton paddle steamer berthing only a few feet away from their tables. Eating was suspended as heaving lines were thrown ashore - there was some concern that a 'monkey's paw' might land in the soup! The pier no longer has any pier staff so our versatile purser, Jim MacFadzean, had to stay ashore to cast off the bow spring then negotiate the various obstacles behind the restaurant and jump aboard before the skipper rang down 'slow astern' to go out into the loch. WAVERLEY took her leave of Fort William for another year and two hours later Oban was reached just as darkness fell.

The Iona Swell

On Monday 6th May WAVERLEY operated her annual Iona sailing, for the second year as a Round Mull sailing but on this occasion with no call at Tobermory. Off Staffa, Captain Mishel gave a close view of the east side of the island before heading for the 'Sacred Isle'. When we reached the Sound of Iona, slightly early, we found a busy anchorage with the HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS and the sail training ship MALCOLM MILLER already there and WAVERLEY completed the trio. She dropped anchor close to the slipway to await the arrival of the tender MORVERN which would ferry her near 500 passengers ashore.

Whilst her passengers were ashore, enjoying the delights of Iona, a turn of tide and wind caused the swell to build and WAVERLEY to roll at her shallow anchorage. The movement was enough to make an attempt to re-embark passengers from the ferry inadvisable and the skipper decided to delay this operation to see if the swell would moderate. It did, but only for short periods. With time advancing Captain Mishel decided to move the vessel to deeper water where the swell was less but the ferry runs were longer, with attendant delay. By the time that all passengers were safely aboard and the anchor was weighed the ship was about two hours behind schedule, so she set off with haste, trying to make up lost time. Oban was reached at dusk and the ship settled down for her last night of 1991 in the West Highlands.

Over the Craighouse Bar

Tuesday 7th May dawned brightly; WAVERLEY was preparing at the North Pier for her return to the Clyde. For the first time since 1981 she would carry passengers on her southbound voyage around the 'Mull'. As she lay at the pier the coaster ISLE OF TIREE, which carries bottled butane and propane to various islands, lay ahead and inshore of the steamer, only a few inches between her starboard quarter and WAVERLEY's port bow. With no room to spring the bow but the breeze offshore, WAVERLEY carried off the pier when the mooring ropes were let go. She moved astern towards St Columba's Cathedral, the normal procedure adopted by Captain Mishel, before coming ahead in a farewell sweep around the bay that carried her into Kerrera Sound. The highlight of the homeward sailing was a close passage down the east coast of Jura culminating in a rare sailing through Craighouse Harbour, the principal port of Jura. Approaching from the north, the ship set a course between the islands of Pladda and Eilean nan Coinein, two of the Small Islands that guard the harbour providing a sheltered anchorage. The waters inside the Small Islands at the north end of the harbour are quite shallow and we could see the seaweed through the clear water as we passed over the sand bar into the deeper water of the inner harbour. A wave rose in our wake as we passed over the bar indicating the rising seabed but we were expertly guided into the inner harbour. We noted a coaster at the pier, once used by MacBrayne's mailboats, servicing the island's famous Isle of Jura malt distillery. The mailboat service to Craighouse was superseded in the early seventies by the Western Ferries' service from Port Askaig to Feolin since when calls by passenger vessels at Craighouse pier have been virtually unknown although the CalMac ferry BUTE paid a special visit for livestock in 1976, sailing to Oban. WAVERLEY's visit to the harbour that day was her first and although it was not possible to pay a call at the pier, the opportunity for a close look at Craighouse from the sea was much appreciated by the enthusiasts aboard. The locals ashore must have been surprised to see a paddle steamer in the harbour, their first, no doubt, since PIONEER, half a century earlier. WAVERLEY left the harbour by the relatively narrow channel between Eilean nan Gabhar and the light on the reef running out from Rubha Laimhrige then turned south along the remaining Jura shoreline, passing inside Na Cuiltean rocks.

As the ship crossed the southern entrance of the Sound of Islay we had a fine view of MacArthur's Head Lighthouse, perched on the steep slopes with its neat white wall describing a curious shape on the hillside. On time we reached Port Ellen where we stayed only for a short time, long enough for those interested to take photographs.

All too soon we were back round the Mull of Kintyre and passing another Isle of Pladda on our way by the south of Arran to Ayr Harbour, another West Highland adventure complete. With her passengers safely aboard their coach to Glasgow, WAVERLEY departed Ayr for her light sailing up-river and a post-midnight arrival at Anderston Quay.

Turned at the Mull

In 1992 WAVERLEY was scheduled to carry out a programme similar to that of the previous year. On Friday May 1st she left Ayr as scheduled to head for Port Ellen and Oban. The weather forecast was not promising for although it was fine and sunny as we crossed the lower Firth there was a strong south westerly wind and a building swell. We sailed out past the Sanda Islands but as we reached out towards the Mull of Kintyre the swell became too great and Captain Neill decided that it would be too uncomfortable, and perhaps dangerous to attempt to round 'MacBrayne's Cape Horn'. We had a lively few minutes as WAVERLEY was brought round in a tight arc to port but, when the wind was behind us, it was relatively calm for the run back into Campbeltown Loch. After about an hour in Campbeltown West Coast Motors coaches arrived to convey the paddler's passengers on to Oban. We were disappointed on missing the sailing through the southern Hebrides but we realised that there was no option. An amazing sight on that action filled bus journey was the long queue that snaked out of the public conveniences at the pit stop in Lochgilphead. Some Commodores at the head of the queue were even known to rejoin the end of it, so impressed were they of the facilities. It was certainly an action packed day and the Commodore known as Large, despite being the epitome of sobriety, had the misfortune to trip on his descent from the heights of the Oban Inn landing on the pavement and dismantling his spectacles. Always prepared, he quickly donned his reserve eyepieces but their distinctive style was the subject of much derisive comment from less tactful Commodores.

WAVERLEY lay at Campbeltown for about 12 hours before attempting another rounding of the Mull. Again she ran into terrible seas but battled on at a much reduced speed and eventually reached Oban just after 1400. This meant that her proposed 1000 sailing from Oban to Mallaig and Loch Hourn had to be cancelled but she offered a truncated sailing up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory, Ardnamurchan and Loch Sunart. She managed to round Ardnamurchan as the winds and seas were much reduced by then and it was remarked that she must be the first paddler steamer to round both the Mull of Kintyre and Ardnamurchan Point within the space of one day for very many years.

1992 did not prove to be a good year for weather during the Western Isles visit as her Sunday cruises from Fort William to the Four Lochs and Corryvreckan Whirlpool and the annual Monday sailing to Iona were spoiled by rain. One highlight of the Iona visit was that she had her 'own' special tender to ferry passengers ashore. Whilst the CalMac ferry MORVERN performed the normal ferry duties, the Company sent the pioneer Burness Corlett class ferry KILBRANNAN round to Iona from Bunessan to tender to WAVERLEY. This was the first and last time that she performed this duty as she was sold a few weeks later for further service to Aran Island in Eire.

On Tuesday May 5th WAVERLEY left the North Pier in a huge arc astern, carrying her well down into the Kerrera Sound before she came ahead and pointed her bows to the south. On her way back to the Clyde a call was made at Crinan where passengers were amused at the distance that the stern spring rope had to be taken to find a suitable anchor point. It seemed to disappear over the little hill behind the pier and down into the canal basin beyond and almost carried away a lady onlookers shopping bag as the slack was taken up! WAVERLEY called at Port Ellen on her way back to Ayr and the sailing round the Mull was easily accomplished on this occasion.

The 1992 visit to the Western Highlands had been spoiled to some extent by the weather although there were still interesting and enjoyable moments.

A Look at Salen

The 1993 sailings by WAVERLEY followed the curtailed programme of 'a long weekend' established in the previous two years. Unfortunately, gone was the wonderful week in the Hebrides that we had experienced in the period 1988-1990. However, even a curtailed visit to the Western Isles is worthy of praise. WAVERLEY sailed round from Ayr to Oban on Friday 30th April with none of the disruptions of a year earlier. Next day she set out from Oban for a cruise to Mallaig and on into the Sound of Sleat and Loch Hourn. On the outward journey Captain Mishel gave his passengers fine views of the northern shore of the Sound of Mull and passed close to the eastern extremities of the Small Isles of Muck and Eigg.

After Mallaig on the way back we headed back round Ardnamurchan and down the southern shore of the Sound of Mull. Possibly the highlight of the whole day, at least for the WAVERLEY enthusiasts, was a sailing through Salen Bay on Mull that took us very close to the old steamer pier at Salen which had last been used almost thirty years earlier. Indeed, Capt. Mishel's close approach to the pier seemed to convince a couple of locals working ashore that she was going to call at the structure as they stopped their chores and watched in amazement as we swept into the bay. Sadly the pier structure is far beyond a safe state and Salen will remain one of the piers at which the ubiquitous WAVERLEY never called. We reached Oban at dusk, well satisfied with our day.

Next day she went to the Four Lochs again and on the Monday she returned to Iona, this time reverting back to the outward and inward sailings being via the Ross of Mull. At Iona she was met by the new, and much larger CalMac ferry LOCH BUIE for the first time. Unfortunately, this was not a particularly successful encounter as the differing fendering arrangements of the new ship combined with the wash from her Voith Schneider propulsion units and a swell in the Sound made the transfer of passengers from the ship very difficult. Capt. Mishel decided that the procedure was too risky and, after the first boatload of passengers was away, he informed his remaining passengers that it would not be possible to land them on the island, a great disappointment, especially to those who had not previously landed on the Sacred Isle. Indeed, it was going to prove difficult to re-embark the passengers who had 'escaped' to the shore. To try to ease the effect of the swell Capt. Mishel consulted the local boatmen on LOCH BUIE who have a great knowledge of the local swell and currents. It was decided to move the paddler across to the Mull shore where she found shelter at the entrance to the famous 'Bull-hole' anchorage. She lay in the sunshine just a hundred yards of the village of Fionnphort, LOCH BUIE's Mull terminal. Anyone ashore with a camera would have had a unique opportunity to capture WAVERLEY in a new location but the Commodores were frustrated aboard.

Next morning WAVERLEY took her leave of the Western Isles again heading via Port Ellen to Ayr. She would not return the following year.

BALMORAL’s Year

A number of factors conspired to break the 13 year tradition of WAVERLEY's spring visits to the Western Isles. A successful autumn visit to the Thames in 1993 encouraged Waverley Excursions to expand operations in that area in 1994. This, combined with a late Easter, and that her spring overhaul was performed at Marchwood near Southampton for the first time led to the paddler starting her twentieth season under the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society far from her home waters.

Fortunately, for those Commodores who love the Hebrides in their own right and will sail there in (almost) any type of vessel Waverley Excursions maintained their presence in the area by sending BALMORAL on her first schedule of excursions in the area. As remarked earlier, it was not her first visit to the area as she had performed a number of light positioning runs from the west to east coast of Britain by passing through the Hebridean seas. She had never called at any piers or harbours during these sailings.

BALMORAL's visit to the Western Isles was to have some differences from those of WAVERLEY and some similarities. Instead of sailing from Ayr, as WAVERLEY had always done, on Friday 29th April BALMORAL left Glasgow Anderston Quay at the early hour of 0700 for what would have been a unique sailing via Largs and Campbeltown to Craighouse on the Isle of Jura and on to Oban. Unfortunately, it was not too be. All went well until the 45-year old motorship approached the pier at Largs at 0945. Just as she berthed there, passengers on the after promenade deck, were 'showered' with smuts from the funnel and when the ship left again it was obvious that all was not well as she was sailing on one engine only. In fact a cylinder liner in the starboard engine had cracked requiring the engine to be shut down. The vessel was reduced to about 9-10 knots and it became evident as we laboured through the Tan, round the Cock of Arran and down the Kilbrannan Sound, passing close by Carradale, that she would not be able to reach Oban that night.

A touch of 'déjà vu' was experienced as we disembarked from the vessel at Campbeltown to board the West Coast Motors coaches for Oban as we had done two years earlier from WAVERLEY though for different reasons. The most disappointing aspect of the curtailment of the first sailing of the weekend was that the historic call at Craighouse on the Isle of Jura had been lost. WAVERLEY had never called at Craighouse in her West Highland visits although she had passed close to the pier when returning to the Clyde in 1991. Indeed it had been over twenty years since regular calls at Craighouse had been superseded by the short ferry crossing from Port Askaig, on Islay, to the lonely slipway at Feolin. Since then the only regular sailings to the pier had been by coastal cargo vessels servicing the adjacent Isle of Jura distillery in the village. A few cattle sailings had been operated by MacBrayne ferries in the mid 1970s, mainly, if not entirely without passengers, at least of the two-legged variety. It would have been nice to see a conventional passenger vessel alongside the pier, for the first time since the departure of the mailboat LOCHIEL a quarter of a century earlier, but fate decided otherwise. Maybe BALMORAL will be successful in visiting Craighouse some day.

Royal Mail Ship to Colonsay

BALMORAL's damaged cylinder liner was repaired in the early evening at Campbeltown pier and she set off round the Mull of Kintyre arriving at Oban for the first time ever at 0400. As dawn broke, she lay starboard side to at the North Pier awaiting the start of her first ever West Highland excursion. This was to be a unique sailing, even more than originally planned. She was to have sailed south via the western shore of Jura and the Sound of Islay to the beautiful little island of Gigha, God's Island, returning via the Sound of Jura. However, on the previous evening the Royal Mail consignment for the farther flung island of Colonsay had somehow missed the sailing by CalMac's ferry ISLE OF MULL. Captain Mishel was approached to see if he could help and agreed to divert from the vessel's intended course to call at Colonsay simply to deposit the mail. However, he probably realised even then that, with a gang of steamer 'nutters' aboard, he was unlikely to get away without a request for a quick run ashore for a photograph of the unique occasion. Kindly, he agreed to indulge the eccentricities of the special breed that is the Clyde steamer enthusiast and, when BALMORAL was made fast alongside the pier at Scalasaig for the first time ever, he told the assembled masses of camera-laden esoterics that they had 'five minutes'. Unfortunately, since the construction of the linkspan at Colonsay in 1988 it is difficult to get a good picture of a vessel of BALMORAL's size at the pier unless one scales the hills to the south of the pier. It takes a bit more than 5 minutes for even the most agile of nutters to get there and back - and reel off three rolls of film in between. Ashamedly, a few liberties were taken and the five minutes was stretched into a 'highland five minutes' of twenty five minutes. In mitigation the enthusiasts were faced with a bit more than they bargained for in their quest for a unique picture. After negotiating a herd of cows basking in the sunshine on Colonsay's 'main street' at the head of the pier, they found that the hillside that formed such a perfect photographic grandstand for BALMORAL in sunshine at the pier was, in fact, a quite treacherous peat bog. Getting up there was not too bad but coming back down, especially in haste given our fear of being left behind until the next call of ISLE OF MULL three days later, was decidedly dangerous. Most of the intrepid band managed to stay vertical albeit with rather soggy footwear as they unexpectedly found deep puddles lurking surreptitiously behind clumps of gorse. However, it must be recorded that a weel kent member of the party was heard to express his disgust rather forcefully as he found himself sliding down a very damp and muddy slope on his posterior. As it is always the aim of this record to be the epitome of tact and diplomacy, his identity will not be revealed to the wider world. Suffice to say that the gentleman is famous for his informative and revealing commentaries delivered over the public address systems of both WAVERLEY and BALMORAL in his own inimitable style. He repaired below to adjust his attire as BALMORAL swung away from Colonsay after her first, perhaps only, call there. It was a very enjoyable and entertaining interlude in the cruise and Captain Mishel was to be heartily thanked for his kind gesture in allowing the 'run ashore'. In fact, if he had his binoculars trained on the culprits on the hillside he may have been greatly entertained by their exploits in the peat bogs

To God’s Isle by the Sound of Islay

After the diversions to and on Colonsay we were a bit late as we headed east towards the western entrance of the Sound of Islay the wide strait of water that separates lonely Jura from the much more populous and lively whisky isle of Islay. BALMORAL made good time and as she entered the wide sound a great view of the tall lighthouse at Rubha a Mhail (Ruvaal) on the Islay shore was obtained. It was many years since the writer had sailed past Rubha a Mhail and it was good to see it again, now sadly unmanned like so many others. As BALMORAL proceeded down the sound there was plenty to observe; first an eagle patrolling high above the Islay shore, then the dominant view of the Paps of Jura to port, Bunnahabhain distillery, one of eight on Islay, the glass fronted still house of Caol Ila distillery with the nearby wreck of the steel trawler that has been a prominent feature of this area for some years and the little haven of Port Askaig which serves as a connection between Islay and the mainland and the short ferry route from Islay to Jura. At the pier the little red hulled ferry SOUND OF GIGHA lay, preparing for her next run across to Feolin following the arrival of the ferry from the mainland. She had served this route faithfully for over twenty five years.

As BALMORAL approached the southern end of the Sound of Islay the steamer enthusiasts checked their timetables and looked out for the CalMac ferry heading from Kennacraig in West Loch Tarbert to Port Askaig. The vessel duly appeared and passed fairly close to BALMORAL off Am Fraoch Eilean. She was the 1984 Port Glasgow built vessel ISLE OF ARRAN which had been displaced from serving the island after which she was named the previous autumn when a new, larger ferry took over route from Ardrossan. At first thought it seems odd to see a ship named after the Isle of Arran serving to the Isle of Islay but from our viewpoint aboard BALMORAL we realised that that vessel was still sailing within sight of her sponsoring island as the majestic peaks of Beinn Bhreac, Beinn Bharrain and others on Arran could be clearly seen behind the ferry and over the backbone of northern Kintyre.

On leaving the Sound of Islay BALMORAL set a course straight for the southern end of the Isle of Gigha passing between the main isle and the little uninhabited satellite island of Cara. She slowed markedly as she approached the pier, which is situated close to the southern end of the island on the eastern shore, as the waters here are both shallow and reef-strewn. With little fuss and under the curious gaze of the locals Captain Mishel brought his charge alongside the little pier, BALMORAL thus becoming the first passenger vessel to call there since MacBrayne's PIONEER in the mid 70s. A regular visitor to the pier used to be the 1939 Denny-built mailboat LOCHIEL on her regular services from the mainland, until her withdrawal in 1970. By a curious coincidence BALMORAL often passes close by LOCHIEL on her visits to Bristol docks where the latter has been in service as a restaurant ship for well over a decade. Our diversion to Colonsay had caused us to arrive late at Gigha and, mindful of the vessel's late arrival at her final destination that night, Capt. Mishel decided to truncate the Lismore, Castle Stalker and Benderloch. Only the scar of Glen Sanda quarry jarred. As she neared Oban the skies clouded but the weather stayed dry. Leaving Oban via the Sound of Kerrera it was good to see that the vessel was being escorted by Oban lifeboat as WAVERLEY always is on this cruise. During a display of lifeboat skills in the Sound a collection is taken aboard the steamer, resulting in a useful donation to that vital voluntary service. BALMORAL repeated the Four Lochs cruise of WAVERLEY though not traversing to the upper limits of Loch Craignish as WAVERLEY had done in earlier years - a disappointment for those who know the great beauty of that loch. She returned via Corryvreckan, which was very tame, to Oban and Fort William.

On her final West Highland day BALMORAL started early from Fort William and, as she arrived at Oban, 'regular' travellers of the previous few days noted that she had acquired a dark green top to her cream funnel which helped to relieve the blandness noted earlier, though many would have preferred the retention of the red and black funnel colours of 1993. Leaving Oban, she headed along the south coast of Mull, inside the Torran Rocks, past Erraid and into the Sound of Iona. It was her first visit to the magical, Sacred Isle. Instead of using the anchorage at Martyr's Bay or St Ronan's Bay previously used by WAVERLEY she sailed on to the old anchorage north of the Abbey, sometimes used by KING GEORGE V during her regular visits to the island. BALMORAL commemorated that fine ship by flying one of her name pennants opposite her own on the crosstrees of her foremast, throughout the sailing to Iona and back.. After the unsuccessful use of LOCH BUIE the previous year, no attempt was made to repeat this operation. Instead WEL secured the services of the more traditional launches OSSIAN OF STAFFA and IOLAIRE OF IONA to transfer her passengers ashore. In many ways this was most fitting as WAVERLEY had used the IOLAIRE and a similar vessel LAIRD OF STAFFA during her first visit to Iona in 1982.

All those who wanted to go ashore were successfully landed and enjoyed a peaceful hour in the most serene of islands. No matter how busy is Iona in the peak of the pilgrim tourist season it is always at peace, never hurried, always safe. Such is its unique atmosphere that it is little wonder that it was chosen as the final resting place of the earliest Scottish, Norwegian and Irish Kings and the Lords of the Isles. Iona is world renowned yet seldom mentioned in current day matters. Sadly, within a month of BALMORAL's first visit it was to be recalled nationally and internationally in the media following the untimely death of one of the most respected politicians of the later 20th Century. The Rt. Hon John Smith QC MP, Leader of Her Majesty's Opposition was laid to rest in the island's graveyard. He was regarded then as the man most likely to become the next Prime Minister of the United Kingdom but fate robbed the country of his services. Rarely is permission given for non-islanders to be buried on the island and it was a measure of the great esteem in which he was held by vast numbers of the British people that the islanders felt honoured to receive him. Perhaps in subsequent visits by WAVERLEY or BALMORAL passengers will visit his resting place and remember the contributions he made and enjoy the glories of the Western Isles that, like many of us, he loved so much.

BALMORAL left Iona heading back to Oban by the Ross of Mull. Her return sailing was truncated at Oban and, after taking water, she departed for Milford Haven. Her first West Highland programme had got off to a rather awkward start and it was slightly disappointing that there was no sailing in the Sound of Mull or round Ardnamurchan but, nonetheless, we had been grateful for the chance of sailing again in the Hebrides on a conventional passenger ship and the Saturday sailing to Colonsay and Gigha had been very enjoyable.

WAVERLEY Returns to the Hebrides

WAVERLEY had been sadly missed when she did not appear in the Hebrides in 1994 so it was widely appreciated when Waverley Excursions decided to take the vessel back to the West to celebrate the commencement of her twenty-first season under the control of the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society. It was even more appreciated that, after four years of shortened West Highland programmes, the vessel was to operate a 10 day schedule of sailings, equal in length to the halcyon seasons of 1989 and 1990. All that was needed was the weather of those seasons and, hopefully, a return of the good passenger numbers enjoyed especially during 1989. Early indications were that the vessel was to make her first calls at the piers at Lochaline, Coll and Broadford and would make a ferry landing at Applecross where the Stornoway mail steamer had stopped for so many years on her way to the railheads at Kyle of Lochalsh (for the Highland Railway link to Inverness) and Mallaig (for the West Highland line link to Fort William and Glasgow). As it had been many years since any of these ports had seen a paddle steamer (indeed Coll pier was built long after the MacBrayne paddlers has disappeared) the sailings would have been of considerable historical interest. In the event only Broadford survived in the finalised schedule due to various hindrances but Captain Neill also managed to add two other new ports of call which had the steamer enthusiasts reaching for their camera cases.

Friday 21st April, 1995 dawned a very fine though chilly spring morning. A remarkable total of about 160 passengers turned up at Anderston Quay in Glasgow for the start of WAVERLEY's fourteenth visit to the Hebrides. As usual they had travelled from far and wide and it was especially good to see our friends from the Lake Lucerne and Lake Geneva areas of Switzerland reinforcing the considerable fraternity between the British paddle steamer enthusiasts and those involved with the magnificent paddle steamer fleets of the lakes of Helvetia. It was gratifying to know that given the superb ships and the wonderful scenery of that beautiful country they were enthused to come and sample the delights of WAVERLEY and the marvellous scenery of Scotland's western seaboard. They were not to be disappointed.

The north east wind that was blowing across the river that morning promised to keep the air conditions very clear although we also realised that it meant cold temperatures on the deck. However, everyone was happy to put on an extra sweater if it meant that the lochs and hills could be seen in all their glory. When the temperature became a little too much for the less hardy they slipped below to sample the offerings from the ships magnificently refitted dining saloon. They were all aware that a Herculean effort by Captain Neill and other members of the Waverley Excursions staff, together with the help of a small band of ever faithful enthusiasts, had been required over the previous six months to make the ship comply with new Department of Transport regulations. Without that tremendous effort, and the remarkable raising of £250,000 by PSPS members towards the cost of the work, WAVERLEY could well have remained tied up at Anderston Quay, her working life over. At last the fight was won and it was time to celebrate the return of this amazing, venerable ship. Whilst much of the hard and expensive work was hidden from the passengers eyes, other aspects of the refit were obvious for all to enjoy. The refitting of the dining saloon was superb and the saloon, complete with stylish new varnished wood safety windows and new seating, now rivalled the 'new' Jeanie Deans Lounge at the other end of the vessel which had been similarly refitted the previous winter. On the upper deck there was much more space for passengers following the removal of the liferafts to the sponsons. The appearance of a large lifejacket hamper was unwelcome to the purist but found favour with those seeking shelter from the cool breeze. Like all changes, it would eventually become accepted as part of the ship. By contrast the new mainmast, looking marvellous with its clean appearance and fresh varnish drew many favourable comments. Whilst its different colour from the foremast gave the ship a slightly strange appearance it was appreciated that the balance would eventually be restored when the foremast was replaced in a forthcoming winter refit. Perhaps one of the most pleasing new features of the vessel was the replacement companionway between the promenade deck and the main deck in the after deck shelter. This was a piece of fine craftsmanship, a beautiful highly varnished staircase completely in keeping with the ship's character. A superb feature of the new stairway was the addition of polished brass plates along the leading edge of every step. Each plate was proudly embossed with the vessel's name. This feature was especially appreciated by our Swiss friends and those of us who had sailed on the lovely Swiss paddle steamers as similar, though not identical, step-plates are a prominent embellishment of the Swiss ships. It was a subtle but appreciated link between kindred organisations.

Glasgow to the Isles

WAVERLEY's first sailing of the 1995 programme was an unique excursion all the way from the centre of Glasgow to the Hebridean gateway of Oban. Throughout the long history of sailings from Glasgow to the Western Highlands and Islands it is virtually certain that never before had there been such a day excursion from Glasgow to Oban. In the days when steamers plied regularly from Glasgow to the West Coast it would not be unusual for Glasgow and Oban to be linked by sea. However, those sailings also linked many far flung and isolated communities with the Second City of the Empire and a steamer leaving Glasgow would have many calling places before reaching the capital of Lorne. So it is unlikely that the passengers on the steamers of yesterday would reach Oban the same day as they left Glasgow if they were going all the way by sea. WAVERLEY's consort BALMORAL had attempted to achieve that a year earlier on her first sailing to the Hebrides but that venture was thwarted by an engine problem which truncated the sailing at Campbeltown. Perhaps fate had decreed that it would be more fitting for the first such sailing to be done by the last conventional steamer.

At 0815, the vessel's mooring ropes were let go and she commenced a sailing that will take its place prominently amongst the vast history of Clyde and West Highland steamers and also those many wanderings of the WAVERLEY. Within minutes she passed through the Bell's Bridge which had threatened her sailing programme due to being incapacitated by floods some months earlier. In fact it had only been made functional a few days before WAVERLEY proceeded to Greenock's Garvel Drydock in late March for essential final parts of her massive refit. It had been a worrying time for Waverley Excursions personnel and enthusiasts alike. It was good to get a friendly wave from the bridge operators. It seemed to signify that all was well. A short time later we were passing the ship's birthplace, the remains of the renowned Inglis shipyard on the east bank of the River Kelvin where it joins the Clyde at Pointhouse. Then we had a view of the changing face of the old industrial river in the construction of fine new houses, adjacent to Govan Old Parish Church and the one time Govan Pier, on the site of the old Harland & Wolff plating shops. Next came one of the three remaining, and successful Clyde shipbuilding yards, that of Kvaerner at Govan - more renowned for a century as the Fairfield Shipbuilding and Engineering Company. It was good to see that the yard was still busy and the initial sections of a new helicopter carrier for the Royal Navy were observed on the main building berth. The vessel was the first naval ship to be built at the Govan yard for about twenty-five years although it had previously been well known for the construction of destroyers, cruisers, aircraft carriers and even large battleships. The latest vessel would eventually be named HMS OCEAN; a name previously given to an aircraft carrier built in the adjacent shipyard of Stephen's of Linthouse. Further down we noted another three naval craft fitting out at the specialist warship builder Yarrow. Two were Type 23 frigates for the Royal Navy, HMS GRAFTON and HMS SOMERSET, and the other was a corvette for the Malaysian Navy. Another of those ships, and another Type 23 frigate, were under construction, out of our gaze in the covered building hall..

WAVERLEY continued on past Renfrew, Clydebank, Erskine and Dumbarton and did not waste any time as her schedule for that day was quite exacting. In the widening river the coolness of the north-east airstream could be fully 'appreciated' but the enthusiasts aboard resolved to stay on deck until the ship was abeam of Newark in Port Glasgow as it gave them the chance to see the new Caledonian MacBrayne ferry ISLE OF LEWIS at the fitting out berth at Ferguson's shipyard. She had been launched only three days earlier. She was effectively the latest in the long line of Clyde and West Highland 'steamers' and would be the largest ever, with a length of 332 feet and a gross tonnage of about 6500 (compared to WAVERLEY's 693!). By the time that the steamer had Gourock pier on the beam the Commodores, somewhat depleted in numbers that year, had succumbed to the delights of the heat and refreshments of the Jeanie Deans. However, from there they could keep one eye on the Firth which was seen in all its splendour that fine clear day.

The Commodores regained their rightful position on the upper deck of the ship as she was fast approaching Largs pier at 1045 and when she berthed there the atmosphere was remarkably balmy with the Largs Channel almost glass-like, curiously sheltered from the northerly breeze. The feeling was not to last long and the chill returned as the vessel headed into the outer Firth. About fifty passengers joined the ship at Largs, a remarkable number considering that there was no way of getting back there that day. In fact, given the rather larger than expected loading at Glasgow and known forward bookings at Largs and Campbeltown, the Company realised that the number of passengers wanting to travel round the Mull of Kintyre would be considerably larger than the 150 or so that she had normally carried on previous Round the Mull sailings which had all originated in Ayr. Furthermore, it was realised that the number may exceed that ship's restricted passenger limit for that sailing so an urgent request was made to the Marine Survey Office for an extension to numbers. The MSO agreed to this request and the modified certificate was available by the time the ship reached Largs. It was certainly needed.

After leaving Largs, the ship passed down the east shore of both Cumbraes and set a long, roughly south west course for Pladda, a difference from the previous year on BALMORAL as she had taken a course down the Kilbrannan Sound. A magnificent view of the high Arran peaks, still snow capped, was had as the ship forged on through a very calm lower Firth. On rounding Pladda we could see the distinctive shape of Davaar against the lower Kintyre profile and in a remarkably short space of time we were passing the island and steaming up Campbeltown Loch to berth at the south Kintyre town, arriving about 15 minutes early at 1345. It was time for a breather and a run ashore to capture a photo or just a view of the vessel, looking smart in her new paint work, as she bathed in the bright afternoon sunshine. It was effectively the end of the first half of that remarkable sailing. Our sailing along the entire navigable length of the River and Firth of Clyde had been fantastic and, because of the clarity of the air and the scenery, one to remember for a long time. As we reboarded WAVERLEY, after about half an hour ashore, anticipation was high for the second half.

Round MacBrayne’s Cape Horn

When WAVERLEY left Campbeltown Loch she headed south along her familiar summer Wednesday cruise route between the Sanda Islands and the southern end of the Kintyre peninsula. The extension to her special Class III passenger certificate number proved essential as the good weather had encouraged 289 passengers aboard for the sailing around the Mull of Kintyre, known in West Highland folklore as MacBrayne's Cape Horn. This was a highest number of passengers that she had ever carried around the Mull. Soon she was rolling gently in the swell off the famous Mull lighthouse, the first time that she had been in sight of the light since August 1993. Astern there were fine views of the Sanda islands, Ailsa Craig and the Ayrshire Coast. Ahead the view of Ulster and Rathlin was so clear that they looked nearer than they actually were. As the ships bows swung north a vista of islands opened up before her with Islay and Jura dominating the scene. Contrary to her normal practice of heading for Port Ellen on Islay she repeated her course of 1985, passing close by the west shore of Gigha and following the eastern shore of the Sound of Jura until she reached the little hamlet of Crinan at 1930 just as the sun was beginning to descend in the west. Another breather was taken at Crinan to satisfy the passenger certificate requirements and to dispatch the Campbeltown passengers back home by coach. had been ten years - almost to the day - since WAVERLEY had made her first visit to Crinan and the call in 1995 brought back many happy memories of that wonderful sunny day a decade earlier. The views to the west were just as good as they had been that day although the later hour had brought an orange tint to the sky rather than the light blue of the earlier visit. Passengers had time to roam ashore for a worthwhile photograph of the paddler in the lovely evening light and to contemplate the scene in the canal basin where the two steam puffers AULD REEKIE (alias VITAL SPARK at that time) and VIC 32 were laid up. Crinan was something of a steam Mecca that evening with three steamships in the harbour.

All too soon it was time to leave Crinan and resume our northerly course. It was that part of the day in which the lighting conditions of the west coast are very special - a time of day described by that old Scots word - the gloaming. A short time later, as the vessel passed through the Dorus Mhor on her way across to the Sound of Luing, passengers were treated to a quite spectacular sunset over the Gulf of Corryvreckan - a perfect end to the day. The light faded quickly and by the time that WAVERLEY was in the Sound of Kerrera it was effectively dark. Almost unnoticed she slipped into her berth at Oban North Pier. It was the end of a remarkable day's cruising. The scenery of the Firth of Clyde and the Southern Hebrides had been seen at there magnificent best - definitely worth braving the cold breeze. As it was then fast approaching ten in the evening and some of the worthy passengers had been sailing for over thirteen hours most were happy to make for their overnight accommodation. For those who were continuing with the vessel the following day it was to be a short night.

Ardnamurchan Weather

The second day, Saturday 22nd April, dawned even clearer and colder than the first. The waters of Oban Bay were like a sheet of glass in the still morning air until the departure of the CalMac ferry LORD OF THE ISLES at 0600 churned them into life. The sun was shining brightly on the Mull mountains but the North Pier at Oban was still very much in the shadow of the hills behind the town so when passengers started to gather aboard WAVERLEY at about 0630, they found that the ship's upper deck was very slippy with ice underfoot. There was still a covering of white frost on the taffrails. Just before 0700 WAVERLEY blew her whistle (to wake up Oban and make sure that they knew she was away!). She went astern across the bay and into the sunshine pointing her bows towards Dunollie. The weather was very reminiscent of that prevailing during the ship's first two early morning departures from Oban to sail round Ardnamurchan to Portree in 1988 and 1989. In fact, in all the times that the vessel had sailed round Ardnamurchan to Skye, the weather had been very fine (except for one infamous Saturday in May 1990).

As we cleared Kerrera and headed across the Firth of Lorne the Mull ferry ISLE OF MULL passed us close to Lismore light heading in the opposite direction. She had been on a special overnight sailing to South Uist. Behind the threatening Lady Rock, Duart Castle stood out impressively as we passed; its stone walls highlighted by the low strong sunshine. The view of the high Mull mountains was incredible, their green and white slopes forming razor sharp images on the cloudless, light blue sky. Ben More, the only Munro on an island apart from the Skye Cuillins, was just as impressive as it could be - our visitors had a rare impression of Mull's Sound. Soon we were passing the familiar sights of Ardtornish, Salen, Tobermory (from which the ferry COLL was just leaving on her first sailing of the day to Kilchoan) and Rubha nan Gall. We were following in the wake of a small Lys Line container ship that was a few miles in front of us. Gradually we would catch up with her and by the time that we had reached Kyle of Lochalsh we were abeam of her.

On reaching Ardnamurchan, the Point on the Great Ocean, and turning north again we immediately had a spectacular view of the Knoydart hills and the Small Isles and Skye. Particularly prominent that morning was the snow capped Cuillin of Rum with the high peaks of Ainshval, Askeval and Halleval. This was time for some relaxation on the after deck in shelter from the breeze, for it was only approaching ten o'clock and we had been sailing for three hours - it had been an early start after a long day! As we sat and chatted (and reminisced) on the after deck, the well-liked features of the Sound of Sleat came and went. First there was Eigg and its Sgurr, then the ferry piers at Armadale and Mallaig. It was odd not to be calling at either of these places as we had always done so on previous sailings around Ardnamurchan. This time we forged on up the middle of the narrowing Sound passing the mouths of Lochs Nevis and Hourn, which we would visit later in the week, and distant Isle Ornsay. As we approached the narrows at Kylerhea, the village of Glenelg resplendent in the sunshine to starboard and the wonderful mountain road over the Cuillin to port, we had almost caught up on the Lys Line container ship. However, the little Glenelg turntable ferry GLENAHUILISH bravely rushed across the famous tide race between the stern of the container ship and WAVERLEY's bow. The Glenelg ferry, and the whole area around Kylerhea, are a great reminder of older, slower and more peaceful times in the West Highlands. It remains one of the writer's most favourite parts of the whole western seaboard.

Over the Sea to Skye

The sky was more overcast in this area at that time but, as the ship swung round from Kylerhea into Lochalsh, we could see more blue skies in the distance in our direction of travel. Unfortunately, we could also now see the stark concrete pylons and cantilevers of the new Skye Bridge which was under construction and due for completion in the Autumn of 1995. There have been many debates on the pros and cons of this structure in relation to the islands economy, the tourist industry and the natural heritage. In most aspects it is best to leave the Skye folk to debate and to decide but in one aspect almost everyone must be agreed. The bridge does detract from the marvellous vista that was once available from Lochalsh northwards to Raasay and Skye. It is sad to reflect that that unspoilt view will never again be seen. Also evident were the two large Caledonian MacBrayne ferries LOCH DUNVEGAN and LOCH FYNE, which had entered service on the route just after WAVERLEY's last visit to Kyle in 1991. There has been a ferry of some kind across the Kyle of Lochalsh for at least one thousand years. It seemed likely that its final days were now imminent and the end of another era of West Highland shipping was upon us. Within months the two vessels would be re-deployed to other routes, their slipways would be abandoned and for the first time since it opened in 1897 the old railway pier at Kyle would be devoid of any regular berthing 'steamers'. For the tourists, the romance of going 'Over the Sea to Skye' would be lost unless, perhaps, the old Glenelg ferry can survive to preserve an older, gentler way.

As WAVERLEY approached Kyle, almost exactly five hours after leaving Oban, it became obvious that her normal berth along the face of the Railway Pier was occupied by a visiting naval craft, later noted to be a patrol ship of the United Arab Emirates. So WAVERLEY slipped into the more awkward Fisheries Pier for the first time. Unfortunately, there were not many passengers offering at Kyle that day to boost the predictably restricted number on the single sailing from Oban. The reason was understandable. That was a time of serious concern over the future of highland rail services, with dire predictions on the ultimate future of the lines, and a public meeting was being held in Kyle that day to plan a strategy to help protect the services. It is not surprising, therefore, that local loyalties prevailed in preference to a sail on WAVERLEY. Undaunted, the vessel reversed away from the pier before coming ahead out into the main kyle passing the ferries and making her first ever sailing under the incomplete bridge. Perhaps, the saddest feature of its presence is the way that it dominates the little island of Eilean Bhan with its famous and distinctive lighthouse. The previous impact of the lighthouse, standing sentry at the northern entrance to the kyle, is lost forever beside the dominant eastern pylon of the bridge. The bridge does not gain in beauty with closeness but possibly when the paraphernalia of the construction is removed it will blend in more acceptably with the magnificent surroundings.

Paddles Return to Broadford

As she cleared the marked channel that safely guides vessels through the Kyle the scene ahead was altogether more acceptable with a natural vista of mountain and sea. Our first good view of the Skye Cuillin was complemented by the unmistakable crown of Raasay, Dun Caan. However, we were not heading east to Loch Carron or north to Portree as we had done on previous traverses of the kyle. Instead WAVERLEY took a more westerly course and within about half an hour of leaving Kyle she was approaching the old stone quay at Broadford on Skye, her first visit to Skye's second town. It was reckoned to be 64 years since the last paddle steamer, MacBrayne's FUSILIER, had called at Broadford whilst employed on the Portree Mail service at the end of her long career with the Company. Soon Broadford was to disappear from the scheduled sailings and there had been no large passenger ship there for over fifty years - until WAVERLEY called. She is rather longer than the ships that used to call there (in fact she is probably the largest ship ever to call at Broadford) and berthing took a little longer than normal as she came to rest along the narrow end of the stone jetty. Quite a few of the locals came out to see the arrival of the famous WAVERLEY and a few came aboard for the first excursion from Broadford that anyone could remember. Before departure there was time for the 'nutters' to invade quiet Broadford for the obligatory photographic record of the historic call to be made. There efforts were rewarded by a magnificent portrait of WAVERLEY lying at the pier; the high snow-capped mountains of the mainland around Loch Carron providing a dramatic backdrop.

It was to Loch Carron that WAVERLEY headed after clearing Broadford pier and as we approached the mouth of the loch the mountainscape gained in drama. The considerable quantity of snow on the upper slopes confirmed that there would be little scope for sun-bathing on the ship's deck that week. First we passed Plockton, one of the most picturesque and pictured villages in Scotland which was then enjoying fame as the mythical village of Lochdubh in the BBC series 'Hamish MacBeth', which had managed to capture the tongue in cheek character of the western highlands to a tee and gained a considerable following in the process. Hamish MacBeth, though a local policeman, had a definite aura of Para Handy about him. After Plockton we came to the Strome Narrows and passed into inner Loch Carron. The loch looked its best under an icing of snow on the mountains and we almost reached Loch Carron village before turning for 'home', returning to Broadford and Kyle with a short diversion into Loch Kishorn. At Broadford, we wondered if it would be another sixty years before a paddle steamer returned!

The Red Cuillin

After Kyle WAVERLEY headed north again for her first visit to Portree since 1991. Taking her normal course, she passed through Caol Mor between Raasay and Scalpay and entered the Sound of Raasay. It was good to be back in the beautiful sound but it was not any warmer than it had been in all those previous years. If only the West of Scotland could have such a clear atmosphere with another twenty degrees of temperature! We ask too much. After passing the mine workings above Raasay pier, the view astern to the Cuillins was indescribable. A totally clear sky had already started to turn slightly orange as the sun began its descent over the Atlantic. The peaks of Bla Bheinn, Glamaig and Beinn Lee were impressive enough but the shadowed snow on the mighty peak of Sgurr nan Gillean was awesome. Unforgettable. Ahead was Ben Tianavaig, standing guard over the welcoming waters of deep Portree Harbour. Soon we were back in the Port of the King.

There was only just enough time for WAVERLEY's inveterate Commodores and friends to rush ashore, book into their accommodation, try to heat up a little and rush back down to the pier. For we had not yet had enough, even after 12 hours sailing from Oban, and we joined a small group of locals and a ceilidh band for an evening cruise back down the Sound of Raasay, round the southern shore of the island and across the broad width of the Inner Sound to Applecross. There, just as the light had almost faded, WAVERLEY made a grand sweep around shore blowing her whistle in a long blast to alert the locals of the sleepy hamlet to the fact that there was a steamer in the bay for the first time in many years. Those of us with an interest in the ships of the West Highlands could recall that Applecross was a regular ferry call by the intrepid little Stornoway mail steamer SHEILA during her sometimes epic voyages across the Minch in summer and winter, braving some of the most tempestuous seas one can imagine. SHEILA was a smaller ship than WAVERLEY but a quite remarkable sea-boat. WAVERLEY, though not designed for the toils of the Minch in winter, has also proved, during her many voyages in open seas since 1977, to be a good sea-boat. We pondered that this may be something to do with the lineage of the two vessels as we recalled that both were built in the same yard by Inglis of Pointhouse, albeit almost half a century apart. Sadly, SHEILA was to meet an untimely end being wrecked at the mouth of Loch Torridon on New Year's Day 1927 following a tragic and uncharacteristic error of navigation. It was an unfitting fate for such a stout little ship and her valiant crew after their many battles with the infamous seas of the Minch.

As WAVERLEY turned back for Portree, the sunset over the dark backbone of Raasay was summed up in one word by a well known southern enthusiast, 'Staggering !' It was a description that could well have been applied to the whole day. It had not been a day of many passengers but those who had been there were the lucky ones. As we reached Portree at 2215 - fifteen and a quarter hours after leaving Oban - we had finally had enough for the day and surrendered to our beds.

Into the Loch of Hell

After the early starts of the previous two days it was good to have a late start on the third day, although that we started at all was a concern to the strict Sabbatarians of Portree. Heading south in the Sound of Raasay we could see, to starboard, the district of Braes, famed in Skye history for the so called 'Battle of the Braes'. There, in the early 1880s, many brave Skye crofters made a firm but risky stand for their rights and against the terrible Clearances by their southern landlord. The message from Braes resounded all the way to London where the Government under Gladstone eventually set up a Royal Commission leading to the famous crofters rights acts.

This was a lazy day as we wended our way back through the Sound to Kyle and on through Kylerhea to Mallaig for the first call by WAVERLEY in four years. The Calmac ferries IONA and LOCHMOR were tied up in the harbour as their Sunday work had not yet begun. After picking up a few more passengers at Mallaig, we headed north again across the mouth of lovely Loch Nevis, the Loch of Heaven, which is dominated on its northern shore by Ladhar Bheinn (Larvenn), the most westerly Munro on the mainland. We were not to visit the Loch of Heaven that day; instead we were bound for dark Loch Hourn, the Loch of Hell. In dark, misty wet days it is easy to see how this deep sea loch that cuts deep into wilderness of the Rough Bounds of Knoydart got its name. In those conditions it is a very oppressive and forbidding place. Even on a fine day, as that Sunday was, the massive mountains of rock seemed to close in on the deep waters in which we sailed. But it was also possible in those conditions to appreciate the magnificent and unspoilt wilderness that is Knoydart - possibly the last great natural wilderness of Europe. It was a pleasure to sail in the Loch of Hell that day. We turned round a little island off Arnisdale and headed for the sea.

Following our return to Mallaig we started back for Kyle and, ultimately, Portree. As we passed Glenelg, those with binoculars could pick out the impressive ruin of the mighty Bernera Barracks, built to house the Hanoverian troops after the 1715 Jacobite Rebellion. We were all on deck for the peaceful sail back through the Kyle of Lochalsh and Sound of Raasay to Portree where we finished our sailing day at the relatively early time of 2020. However, WAVERLEY's day was not finished as she was heading back to Kyle where she would spend the next day, an off service day, at the pier re-bunkering and catching up on the many little jobs that had arisen over the past three busy days.

An ‘Off Day’ on Raasay

The decision was what to do with an off service day in Portree. For the first time since we left Glasgow the skies were overcast as we rose from our slumbers that Monday morning. Some of WAVERLEY's regulars decided on a tour of Skye, others on an educational trip to the Talisker Distillery and a third group of adventurous Commodores decided on an expedition to the adjacent mysteries of Raasay; with two of the party even threatening to scale the dizzy heights of Dun Caan. This venture was not as straight forward as first thought as the vagaries of public transport connections in the 1990s can sometimes be discouraging. In the event, getting to Raasay was relatively easy - a helpful friend of the Commodores conveniently passing the ferry slipway on his way to Edinburgh deposited us at the exciting Sconser terminal in time to connect with the 1030 ferry. Ominously, as the four Commodores joined the other four passengers on the deck of the gallant ferry RAASAY for the short 15 minute trip to the slipway adjacent to the pier at East Suisinish, the skies began to deposit some very typical West Highland rain. We began to suspect that this may not be one of the Commodore's better ideas. We also realised that all eight passengers on the ferry were refugees from the WAVERLEY and wondered what would have been the point of the ferry sailing if WAVERLEY had not been there!

As we left the ferry, rather reluctantly at Raasay, the rain became heavier and as Dun Caan was lost in low cloud all thoughts of attempting to conquer it quickly evaporated. The only objective then was to find a dry haven in which to plan an early escape from this uninviting place. Raasay is in fact a beautiful and inviting island but its charms were lost to us that morning. With typical Commodorial fortitude and resolve we marched north in search of the Isle of Raasay hotel, the only dry haven on the island. Gradually the torrents of rainwater falling from our waterproof jackets turned jeans into effective sodden leg coolers. What joy! The hotel on Raasay is on the other side of the main settlement of Inverarish from the ferry and about two miles from the slipway. It was four very sodden Commodores that eventually reached the inviting and warm lounge of the hotel about 45 minutes after leaving the ferry. We were instantly made welcome by the locals who helped us in our quest to find an earlier method of return to the civilisation of Portree. We had feared that the first convenient bus connection with a ferry at Sconcer was not until after 1700 (it was still only 1130). What to do for 5 hours on wet Raasay? Fortunately the helpful hotel staff knew of buses that the tourists are obviously not meant to know about and we realised that we could stage our evacuation on the 1430 ferry and make a reasonable connection at Sconser with a bus to Portree. Thus reassured we settled down to enjoy a fine lunch and refreshment before commencing our return to the ferry. Fortunately, by the time of our return walk to the slipway the rain had halted and we took some time to walk through the village and visit the Raasay war memorial. We were surprised to learn that this small community had given up 22 of its inhabitants in the Great War and a further 5 in the 1939-45 war. We also noted an abundance of rhododendron bushes around the village and realised that it would be a very colourful place in a few weeks time.

By the time that we reached the ferry slipway the RAASAY was already awaiting us so we did not have any time to explore the remains of the old iron ore mine that had brought prosperity to the island in the years up to its closure after the Great War. The old miners cottages, a big ore hopper and various other ruined buildings and workings stand in memorial of Raasay's contribution to the Industrial Revolution. We could remember climbing through them on the occasion of WAVERLEY's first visit to the island seven years earlier. We were the only four passengers on the 1430 ferry and there were no cars! On landing at Sconser we took refuge in the bus shelter to await the arrival of the bus supposedly 30 minutes later. Doubts lingered as to the validity of the Raasay hotelier’s timetable. We were surprised when a bus duly appeared - a full 15 minutes before we were expecting one. As we boarded, we realised that we were the only four passengers on the bus as well. The bus raced into Portree without picking up any more passengers, disembarked four grateful Commodores in Somerled Square then disappeared as mysteriously as it had appeared again without picking any more passengers. It seemed that a significant amount of Skye transport that day was being operated for the exclusive use of the Commodores. We will long remember the 'phantom bus of Sconser'.

Later that day, to warm our dampened bones, the Commodores visited one of Skye's most modern facilities - the Portree sauna!

Around the Aird

After a day of rest and repair at Kyle WAVERLEY was ready for the highlight of the 1995 Hebridean tour. It was to be another long day as she departed Kyle at 0745 and would not return for over fourteen hours. The weather had returned to that of the first two days - clear skies and a north easterly breeze which had stiffened overnight. By 0900 WAVERLEY was crossing Portree Harbour to berth at the pier, in fine morning sunshine. A line of photographers caught her arrival from the high road over the bay. A fine sight she made as the sun reflected off her fresh hull paint. At first she seemed quiet and one wondered if the cruise was going to be as popular as its uniqueness suggested it ought to be. Then the Commodores noticed a long snake of schoolchildren making their way down the steps in front of the Royal Hotel. When these excited youngsters came aboard the decks were instantly busier and noisier.

At 0930 we cast off and headed out into the Sound of Raasay. When we reached the mouth of the harbour our bows were brought round to the north for WAVERLEY was scheduled to operate her first sailing round the north of Skye to the west coast of the island. As soon as we were out into the Sound she started to rise and fall slowly by the bow as she headed into the gentle swell being sent down the Sound by the north east wind. For most of her passengers the slight pitching was very enjoyable but some first time sailors were discovering that the moving deck was really not for them. However, there were many attractions for those who were enjoying their sea cruise. Though capped by a cloud, The Storr was as impressive as ever. Indeed, the moving cloud just above the level of the mysterious Old Man was momentarily obscuring the famous pinnacle as it moved across and then as we looked back it was clear for all to see. This veil made the view very atmospheric in a true Skye sense. Over to the east we were just about to clear the lonely isle of Rona and when we did the ship’s pitching increased slightly in the swell, unfortunately causing some discomfort and mal de mer amongst our younger passengers. It was obvious that some of them might even have preferred to be in their classrooms at this stage and they did not appreciate consoling stories that the motion of the ship would decrease once she had rounded the north of the island and was sailing with the sea behind her. Of course, some of the other children were having a great adventure aboard. The swell was just a typical Inner Sound swell with no breaking waves and WAVERLEY took it in her stride not even losing any way. However, to make conditions a little more comfortable for those whose stomachs were tender, Capt. Neill took the vessel inside Eilean Flodigarry as she ploughed on towards the northern tip of Skye. For a few minutes all was calm then we had another short spell of swell as we ran across the mouth of Kilmaluag Bay and into the Sound of Trodday. In the lee of Trodday the seas were calm and when she rounded the Aird and started to head south westerly towards Loch Snizort all the motion had gone and the schoolkids quickly came back to life. Within minutes they were running around the decks again, despite the remonstrations of the purser and the bo'sun.

WAVERLEY was in new waters here as she headed down the west coast of Skye. Once round Rubh' a' Chairn Leth she came onto a south easterly course, similar to that followed by the Calmac ferry on her voyages from Tarbert in Harris to Uig in Skye. It was to the latter port, which nestles in a tight little bay on the eastern shore of vast Loch Snizort, that the paddler was headed and just before midday she swept around Uig bay to berth at the King Edward pier for the first time.

Uig

As WAVERLEY tied up at Uig the enthusiasts amongst us began to postulate on the last time that a paddle steamer had called at the port. Uig, being on the 'outside' of Skye, was served by the Outer islands steamers which, due to vagaries of the Minch, tended be screw steamers. Like Tarbert in Harris, Lochmaddy, Lochboisdale and Castlebay which were all visited by WAVERLEY in 1989-90 the outer Skye ports had not seen a paddle steamer, at least on regular service, since the latter years of the 19th Century or the early years of the 20th Century. The last traceable calls by a paddle steamer at Lochmaddy had been by the MacBrayne paddler LOVEDALE but, as her career came to an end in 1904 that would be the last possible time that she could have substituted as Outer Isles Mail steamer, the service that took her to Lochmaddy. As Uig was also included on that service it seems likely that she called there during these duties but there is no concrete evidence. Whilst the paddle steamer PIONEER made at least one livestock sailing to Tarbert, Harris in 1940 there is nothing to suggest that she called in at Uig during that special duty. So, it would appear that before WAVERLEY's call at Uig that April day in 1995, the previous call by a paddle steamer might well have been almost a century earlier.

This was sufficient encouragement for the faithful 'nutters' to want to record the event and, fortunately, the steamer had arrived early (despite the swell encountered earlier) and there was sufficient time for a dash along the lengthy pier to record another historic visit. The pier at Uig is not designed with ship photographers in mind and it is difficult to get a satisfying view of a vessel with WAVERLEY's low profile from the shore, especially when the tide is quite low as it was then. Fortunately, Capt. Neill had berthed the vessel at the old 'Hebrides' berth rather than the newer linkspan berth, in which a photograph would have been virtually impossible, and her forward end was projecting well past the end of the pier into the inner bay so a passable view could be captured. The best vantage point for photographing ships at Uig pier is from the road to Portree as it climbs steeply up the hill on the opposite side of Uig Bay. However, there was no time for us to reach that spot in the time that we had available to us. Fearful that we might be left behind we scurried back down the pier with a definite feeling that we were getting too old for all that excitement.

Whilst we had been ashore some buses had been summoned to take some of the schoolchildren who had been feeling under the weather in the swell back to Portree. The problem was that many of them were enjoying themselves too much now and did not want to go. They had probably worked out that these horrible buses would be taking them back to school whereas by acting stowaway aboard the WAVERLEY they could put off the evil moment for a while longer. Some were persuaded to take to the buses but other steadfastly refused and remained aboard as WAVERLEY came astern away from the pier in a big arch towards the south shore of the bay. As we looked astern to the shore we could see a sizeable party on the beach waving, shouting jumping up and down in an attempt to draw our attention but we know not why they were there.

Round Waternish to Dunvegan

As WAVERLEY headed out of Uig Bay and west across Loch Snizort she was embarking on the most interesting part of the 1995 Hebridean programme. Steadily she crossed the wide loch passing between the Waternish peninsula and the Ascrib Islands, Eilean Garave, Eilean Creagach and Eilean Iosal. Thus we had a chance to see the side of the islands not normally seen from the ferry on its way between Lochmaddy and Uig. Soon after that we rounded Waternish Point, marked by a small lighthouse, and headed south down the western shore of Waternish until we reached Ardmore point where the course was changed slightly to the east to enter the wild Loch Dunvegan. For WAVERLEY it was yet another first visit to a Hebridean sea loch and for most of us aboard it was the first time that we had ever sailed into this loch. The waterfalls off the sea-cliffs on the Waternish side are spectacular, falling several hundred feet into the loch. As we passed the islands of Mingay and Isay we noticed that the loch narrows considerably between Waternish and Dhuirnish the vast western promontory of Skye, the high hills of which protect the crofts of Loch Dunvegan from strong south westerlies. It is many years indeed since there were regular passenger sailings in Loch Dunvegan, the Outer Isles Mail ship calling once per week up until the Second World War. After the War, the number of calling places was severely reduced and Dunvegan was served by road from other Skye ports. MacBrayne cargo vessels continued to make occasional calls up until the early 1960s. So it would have been quite a surprise for the locals to look out of their windows and see a paddle steamer sailing up the loch.

The pier at Dunvegan is very well protected in a natural little harbour, in a narrow upper reach of the loch, about quarter of a mile north of Dunvegan village. The course to the pier is very devious. As the vessel enters the upper loch through the narrow kyle between the tip of Uignish and the little Gairbh Eilean the pier appears to be dead ahead. However, there is no straight course to the berth as a very shallow shoal lurks just below the surface on the direct course. So WAVERLEY's bows were swung sharply to port to head due east. It was then that most of the passengers got there first view of the famous Dunvegan Castle, seat of the Chief of the MacLeods, standing high on the hill above the bay. It is not one of the most beautiful castles of Scotland and its dull surface almost blends in with the background; perhaps that is intentional. However, it is a well-known tourist attraction and one of its treasures is the Fairy Flag, gifted to the fourth Chief by the fairies to give the clan supernatural powers in battle. The easterly course was held for only a short while until a green marker buoy, apparently in the middle of the loch was astern on the starboard side then the helm was brought back round through almost ninety degrees to head south into the remarkably solid and well maintained little stone pier. As we approached the pier we were cheered to see that a quite considerable number of locals were there to greet us. At just after 1400 WAVERLEY came alongside the old steamboat pier at Dunvegan for the first time. Like Uig a couple of hours earlier she was probably the first paddle steamer to call in at Dunvegan for almost a century (again the LOVEDALE on the Outer Isles run in the 1890s may well have been the last paddler to call at Dunvegan). As well as this WAVERLEY had given most of us the opportunity to call at an old west highland pier for the first time, long after sailings there had been forgotten. A few years ago we would never have dreamed of being able to sail to Dunvegan in anything other than a private yacht but there we were and on a real, traditional steamer. The visit to Dunvegan must rank with those at Raasay, Castlebay and Crinan as amongst the most memorable in WAVERLEY's considerable list of West Highland calling places. Like those other three the view of WAVERLEY at the pier was superbly photogenic, the traditional lines of the steamer blending perfectly with the marvellous old pier buildings and the stunningly beautiful backdrop. Many hundreds of photographs must have been taken in the next 15 minutes. Instead of lying at the pier whilst her Kyle, Portree and Uig passengers were ashore WAVERLEY gave what must be the first ever excursion sailing from Dunvegan, a short cruise along the loch to view Mingay and Isay. She was well supported by the locals of Dunvegan and surroundings for this venture taking a remarkable 225 out to view their loch from a different angle. The view of WAVERLEY as she went swiftly astern from the pier sending masses of lovely white paddle wash up past the old stone pier was a memory to treasure. She reversed into the little bay just below the castle then came ahead past the marker buoy to escape into the outer loch. Whilst she was away there was time for a stroll into the neat little village which was very quiet that day but which can become quite busy at the height of the summer tourist season. There to record the memorable scene on his many cameras was one of the most kenspeckle figures in the realms of West Highland Steamers. Jim Aikman Smith, Secretary and lifeblood of the West Highland Steamer Club for over quarter of a century was famous amongst many on the west coast for his thousands of journey in both summer and winter into the islands from his home in Edinburgh. He had built up a vast army of contacts who would inform him if something unusual or unique was about to happen and he would set off immediately to record it. The result is an unsurpassable photographic record of over 100,000 views of the West Highland steamer scene over the past 30 years. Jim also wrote an incredibly detailed twice yearly review of West Highland steamer events and happenings - recording any delays, for example, to the nearest minute, which is so accurate and detailed that it is even used for reference by Caledonian MacBrayne itself. A few years ago Jim spent many hours researching and writing annual reviews in almost as much detail stretching back to 1939. By the publication of his last newsletter in October 1995 he had produced a quite astonishing record of West Highland steamer history stretching over 57 years. In the main Jim only photographed MacBrayne ships - the one exception was WAVERLEY which he followed on her first visits to all ports around Scotland - but never England, Wales or Ireland! Of course, he liked it best when she visited new places in his beloved West Highlands and I think that he was immensely happy and excited to see her at Dunvegan that day. Sadly, it was to be his last sojourn to see WAVERLEY in the Hebrides as he took ill and died, surely before his time, a few months later. Without Jim Aikman Smith’s amazing writings this story would have been bereft of much of the most fascinating detail. Therefore, I am deeply indebted to Jim for his help in preparing this record and feel sure that I will long remember his enthusiasm, dedication and characteristic humour as I journey though the Hebrides that we both love so much. Whilst WAVERLEY was away other passengers strolled to the Castle where they had time for a quick visit to the gardens but not inside the fortress itself.

We arrived back at the pier in plenty time to watch the vessel's approach. It was deserted and peaceful at first and, apart from the odd car, one could get the feeling of moving back to a time when the pier was used by the grand old MacBrayne and McCallum, Orme steamers that formed a link with the outside world. The illusion was somewhat shattered on noticing a little sign at the pier entrance that informed would be wrong-doers that the premises were protected by closed circuit television. 'Big Brother' had finally reached the Hebrides. It surely wasn't like that when the old DUNARA CASTLE called all those many years ago. A missed heaving line meant that WAVERLEY came a little further past the pier than might otherwise have been the case providing a superb final 'action' photograph. The steamer nutters always have the cameras at the ready for these little unexpected bonuses. With the locals disembarked and most of her outward passengers back aboard; the schoolkids from Portree had finally succumbed to the buses as the return time by ship was too late for them, WAVERLEY reversed away from the pier under the Castle and with a farewell blast on her whistle turned away into the outer loch. Many of the locals stayed on the fine little pier to see her off. Would she ever return? Who knows but for all those who witnessed her first call on Tuesday 25th April, 1995 the memories of that lovely scene at Dunvegan will linger for many years. The sense of history amongst those who realised the significance of the occasion added greatly to the visit. If we only ever visit Dunvegan by road in the future, the image of WAVERLEY lying at the pier will be crystal clear in the 'mind's eye'.

‘Land of the Mountain and the Flood’

As WAVERLEY headed north, up Loch Dunvegan, it was obvious that the northerly wind had freshened considerably and there was significant amounts of spindrift scudding across the surface of the dark grey waters. It was very cold and the Commodores upper deck was impossible but we braved it out on the after deck in the lee of the deckhouse. There was relatively little swell at this point but the power of the wind was amply demonstrated as spray from one of the tremendous waterfalls over the west Waternish cliffs was being blown vertically upwards against the force of gravity in a remarkable tussle of strength between two great natural forces. Such a show of strength only reinforces the feeling of human frailty and we gazed in wonderment at this great natural phenomenon. It is related locally that in the worst of the winter storms the rivers that flow off the Waternish cliffs are lifted vertically as they reach the edge of the cliff to rise in vast geyser- like water spouts into the sky. Thankfully it wasn't so bad on that day. After we passed through the tortured waters where the tides and currents meet at Waternish Point, the sky cleared again to light blue and the surface of the sea was relatively calm as we crossed back over Loch Snizort to Uig. WAVERLEY did not dally at Uig on her second call as she still had a long way to go that evening. After leaving Uig Bay, we went below for dinner before we encountered the anticipated swell off the north end of the island. From the dining saloon we could see the ferry HEBRIDEAN ISLES as she passed relatively close by at the mouth of Loch Snizort on her way from Tarbert to Uig. After dinner we went back on deck to take in the sights and the gathering swell. As we approached the Aird the bows started to rise and fall in the sea but WAVERLEY continued to show what a remarkable seaboat she is as the decks remained quite dry despite the bows plunging into a couple of troughs on the way. The most uncomfortable time was the short passage round the northernmost tip of Skye when the sea was on the beam for twenty minutes. The pitching turned into a roll as we slid through the Sound of Trodday. It is perhaps as well that the schoolkids had left us as they probably would not have enjoyed that part of the sail but the enthusiasts revelled in it although it is always more difficult to maintain a dignified balance when the ship is rolling. However, for most of us it was the best sea cruise that we had managed for some time. To the west, the Quiraing stood in dominance over Trotternish above the little village of Flodigarry.

The sun in the western sky was illuminating the land to the east superbly and we had fine views across to lonely Rona and farther to Loch Torridon with its three impressive mountains of Beinn Alligan, Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Our mind drifted back to the first time we had that view on that unforgettable sailing in 1989 from Stornoway and Tarbert, across the Minch to Portree and Kyle. The current cruise would rank with that and a few others as some of the most memorable Hebridean sailings ever. As we passed the narrow gap between Rona and Raasay, we could see through to the little lighthouse at Ru na Lachan on the Applecross peninsula whilst to the west the Storr, now devoid of any cloud cover and the Old Man as prominent as ever, were in marvellous silhouette. Eventually we reached Portree harbour, only a couple of minutes late. It was a remarkable performance by the 48 year old ship on such a long and testing day with not the calmest of seas. There could be no finer testament to the skill and dedication of her engineers and the shiphandling of her deck officers.

As this was to be WAVERLEY's last call of 1995 at Portree, most of the disembarking passengers lingered on the pier to witness her departure whilst others dashed up to the high hill behind the pier for a bird's eye view of her departure. We were rewarded by three farewell blasts on the whistle as she reversed away from the pier, these adding great life to an already wonderful picture. However, when the pictures were taken, it was time to stop and gaze and remember that wonderful sight of the beautiful old ship in such awesome surroundings and to hope that, one day, we would see it again. We lingered long for the picture before us could not be surpassed.

It was the end of a long, exciting and memorable day. As anticipated it was the highlight of the 1995 visit and a day to rank amongst the best. As we retired to bed that night we may have had a feeling of anti-climax as the highlight of the tour was over but, in fact, there were a few more adventures to capture our imaginations in the days ahead. For then we slept with the memorable scene at Dunvegan fresh in our dreams.

The Kylerhea Shuttle

After the momentous cruise of the previous day, on Wednesday 26th April it was a return to a more mundane existence with a virtual shuttle service through Kylerhea from Kyle to Mallaig and back, twice. However, it is difficult to imagine Kylerhea and the Sound of Sleat, with its great views of the lochs of Knoydart, as mundane. The Commodores had a fairly early start, catching the 0750 bus from Portree to Kyle, but it was a grand run; the mountains around Loch Sligachan, especially mighty Sgurr nan Gillean being as impressive as they can be. As we approached Broadford we could see a large naval craft exercising in the Inner Sound, one of Britain's major submarine exercise areas and as we travelled the last little stage of the journey to Kyleakin we got an impressive view of the luxury cruise ship HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS making her way down from Loch Carron, where she had probably spent the night in Plockton Bay, towards the Kyle of Lochalsh.

The Commodores left the Inverness bus at Kyleakin and boarded the ferry LOCH DUNVEGAN to cross to Kyle, obtaining good views of HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS coming under the Skye Bridge. As we landed at Kyle there was much to occupy the cameras of the shipping enthusiast. Apart from obtaining photos of LOCH DUNVEGAN and LOCH FYNE, just commencing the two ship service at 0930, there was WAVERLEY, looking splendid in the early morning sunshine at the Fisheries Quay, HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS passing on her way south to Oban and, perhaps the most spectacular sight of all was that of the Clyde tug FLYING CHILDERS lifted high out of the water by a large Belgian crane barge. The FLYING CHILDERS had sunk just off the Lochalsh Hotel about three weeks earlier after hitting a reef in the Kyle whilst en route from Greenock to the Inner Sound on a naval charter contract. The large crane barge had arrived in the Kyle on Sunday to prepare for the salvage and the stricken tug was relieved of her unwelcome immersion on Tuesday, whilst we were cruising to Dunvegan. The barge, the NORMA of Brugge, was berthed alongside the Railway Pier that fine sunny morning with a very sorry looking FLYING CHILDERS, still supported by the massive crane slings, sitting on the deck of the barge whilst temporary repairs were made to her hull to allow her to be refloated. It must be one of the most unusual sights ever seen at Kyle Railway Pier. Sadly, the accident heralded the end of another long tradition of Clyde shipping as the tug’s owners, the Clyde Shipping Company of Carlton Place, Glasgow decided to terminate their tug operations on the Clyde which had begun almost 180 years earlier. Within a few years the very distinctive black, brown, orange and white livery of Clyde Shipping’s FLYING tugs were well known the world over. By 1996 Clyde Shipping had long been acknowledged as the oldest surviving shipping company in the world but the loss of the ‘Childers’ brought about the end of operations on the river and within weeks the surviving tug FLYING PHANTOM was sold to rivals, Cory Ship Towage (Clyde) Ltd, itself better known in the heyday as Steel and Bennie.

At 0945 WAVERLEY steamed away from Kyle, sadly with only about 30 passengers despite it being a fine sunny morning. Rather different from her late eighties visits to Kyle when she was almost full. We followed the usual course down Lochalsh, Kylerhea and the Sound of Sleat to Mallaig. As we were with the wind it was a pleasant cruise and the Commodores congregated at the bows for a tremendous view of the wide Sound. At Mallaig there was a major parting of Commodores as some, who were staying again at Portree that night, departed for a sail over to Armadale and a visit to Ardvasar whilst WAVERLEY did her early afternoon return sailing to Kyle. Others stayed aboard as they were departing at Kyle for an late afternoon trip through Skye. As WAVERLEY came astern from Mallaig she was busier than the initial sailing of the day but still this proved to be a lightly loaded day. Off Mallaig we noticed IONA making her way across from Armadale to pick up the departed Commodores. She looked fine in the sunshine but we realised that that may be the last time that we would see her approach Mallaig from the deck of WAVERLEY as it was expected that Caledonian MacBrayne would, in the near future, order a new ship that would ultimately lead to IONA's withdrawal in 1997. By that time she would be 27 years old and one of the longest serving car ferries on the West Coast. Also off Mallaig we noted the Cory tug POINT SPENCER which was based at Greenock and learned that, like WAVERLEY, she was bound for Kyle to take the stricken FLYING CHILDERS in tow back to Greenock. Off Mallaig POINT SPENCER was almost abeam of WAVERLEY but the paddler quickly built up a considerable lead as both vessels steamed up the Sound of Sleat. As we crossed the mouth of Loch Nevis we noted the HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS anchored in the Loch of Heaven off Inverie.

When WAVERLEY reached the Kyle of Lochalsh she did not proceed directly to the pier as the cruise was advertised as viewing the Skye Bridge and, for the ninth time that week she passed under the partly completed structure and on towards the Crowlin Islands before turning back for Kyle. She passed down the west of the eileans off Kyle to berth bows pointing north just before 1400. Here we departed for our afternoon diversion but we lingered on the Railway Pier to watch WAVERLEY reverse out into the Kyle. Despite valiant attempts by the islands bottled gas carrier ISLE OF TIREE to get in the way, the Mighty Paddler eventually set a course back to Mallaig from whence she operated a cruise into Loch Nevis, the second cruise vessel that day, before returning to Kyle to bunker and take water for her Outer Isles programme.

A Return to Uist and Tir nan Og

The Commodores who had departed WAVERLEY at Kyle had a couple of hours to spare before crossing on the ferry LOCH FYNE to await the arrival of the bus from Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow. Local timetables and tourist offices confidently predicted that the bus would terminate at Portree and the Commodores would have to find private transport to Uig. However, the Commodores were of the opinion that the bus was scheduled to continue to Uig, despite what the timetables indicated and, lo and behold, when the relevant Skyeways vehicle arrived at the Kyleakin bus stop its destination board indicated 'Uig' - a taxi fare saved! Our confidence in the (dis)integrated British transport system was restored. As the bus finally came over the hills above Loch Snizort we had a fine view out to the west and of the ferry HEBRIDEAN ISLES arriving from Tarbert. We boarded the ferry and set off for a pleasant evening sailing across the Little Minch. The swell of the previous day had persisted and the ship took on a long, lazy roll as she passed to the east of the Ascrib Isles and left Loch Snizort. We went below for a fine dinner as the ferry, which had then served for almost 10 years on the Hebridean Triangle, ploughed her way across to the Outer Isles. Finishing dinner in time to go on deck with my two Commodorial companions who were making their first visit to North Uist, I was happy to see again the familiar profile of North and South Lee, the only two high hills on Uist and the silhouettes of the famous Maddies on our approach to the Loch of the Sea-wolves. The sun was getting low in the sky as we arrived at Lochmaddy but the light had still that magical, luminescent brilliance that one can only find in the Hebrides and Tir nan Og, the Land of the Ever Young, beyond. It was good to be back.

A Voyage of Discovery

WAVERLEY had left Kyle late on the Wednesday night and sailed round the north of Skye and across the Little Minch, slipping into the berth at Lochmaddy just before 0900, unnoticed by the Commodores who were still at breakfast. It was her first visit to the North Uist port since 1990 and the sailing that she was to operate that day would be only her third return sailing from there. Lochmaddy is a place of great frustration for steamer enthusiasts as it is extremely difficult to get a good photograph of a vessel, especially one of WAVERLEY's height, whilst berthed at the pier. This is especially so in the morning when the sun is in the wrong place. The only real vantage point lies a hundred yards across a little adjunct of the loch but to reach there is a very long trudge over peat bog. We did not have time to attempt the hike on that visit. The Commodores had discovered a helicopter parked outside one of Lochmaddy's guest houses the previous evening and suggested to the pilot that he might like to view WAVERLEY at the pier from the air (with Commodores and cameras aboard) but the suggestion was politely ignored. As WAVERLEY lay at Lochmaddy pier buses of schoolchildren arrived from all over the Uists and a very familiar figure was noted striding down the pier - a very fit looking Roddy McIssac, the ship's former bo'sun until he retired to his native South Uist in August of 1994. Roddy joined us for the cruise and it was indeed good to see him aboard again. Lochmaddy is not an ideal place for handling a vessel of WAVERLEY's limited astern steering particularly when the wind conspires to blow the vessel off course in the direction of the numerous reefs but Capt. Neill expertly manoeuvred the vessel fore and aft until she could safely navigate a course through the islets.

We went below for tea and a 'helpful' member of the ship's catering staff challenged the Commodores to complete the questionnaire entitled 'A Voyage of Discovery' which was prepared by Waverley Excursions to help visiting schoolchildren to learn of the historic vessel that they were sailing on. As we laboured under the strain of all those difficult questions we were spotted by the skipper who seemed to be amused, or bemused, at the activities of these eccentric enthusiasts on a sea cruise in the Outer Hebrides! Soon we were passing up the barren, rocky shore of the east coast of Harris and we noted some ominous clouds lingering over the high Harris hills. As we sailed up the East Loch and passed HEBRIDEAN ISLES off Scalpay, making her way back to Uig, we were suddenly blasted by a sharp shower of hailstones that sent us scurrying for cover. Fortunately, this violent precipitation was temporary and by the time that WAVERLEY berthed at Tarbert, for the first time in four years, it had gone.

The Sound of Harris

The Commodores that we had left behind at Mallaig the previous day were waiting on Tarbert pier when WAVERLEY arrived about noon. They had come across the Minch from Uig on HEBRIDEAN ISLES that morning. They boarded and brought some Harris schoolchildren with them and soon WAVERLEY was going astern from the pier to turn in the loch and proceed via the Sound of Scalpay on a cruise back to Lochmaddy. As usual during a school cruise the busiest part of the ship was the souvenir shop and the queue of children stretched past the engineroom to the Jeanie Deans lounge.

As we passed by the eastern extremity of the Sound of Harris we could see the islands of Ensay, Killegrey and Berneray that occupy the shoal-filled Sound and we were reminded that a few weeks earlier Caledonian MacBrayne had placed an order for a new ferry, similar to the LOCH TARBERT that operates the service from Cloanaig in Kintyre to Lochranza in Arran, to inaugurate a new service between the southern end of Harris, Berneray and North Uist in the spring of 1996. When that service was in operation the HEBRIDEAN ISLES would concentrate on the runs from Uig to Tarbert and Uig to Lochmaddy and the time honoured sailing between Tarbert and Lochmaddy would, sadly, be no more - except by visiting cruise ships such as WAVERLEY. Eventually it was planned to build a causeway between Berneray and North Uist and the ferry service would be reduced to a Harris to Berneray run. Soon WAVERLEY was passing between Weaver's Point on the mainland of North Uist and Madadh Beag, the little sea wolf on her way back into Lochmaddy. At the pier we deposited a good number of happy schoolchildren and our old friend Roddy McIssac. WAVERLEY's second and final departure from Lochmaddy for 1995 was quicker than the first and as we passed to the north of Faihore and headed back towards Weaver's Point we looked back to the quiet little settlement and wondered when we would return.

WAVERLEY finished her day at Tarbert just after 1630 and for the first time she was to spend the night at that port. As a result the Commodores were treated to a night in Tarbert with all its attractions. WAVERLEY lay at the pier for about three hours whilst the crew took on stores and effected minor repairs to the port paddlebox with the help of the starboard lifeboat. She moved away from the pier about 1930 to an anchorage in the loch to make way for the HEBRIDEAN ISLES which was also spending that night at Tarbert. It must be many years since two large passenger vessels have spent the night at Tarbert.

Meanwhile, the Commodores spent a very pleasant evening in the Harris Hotel and, after a very satisfactory dinner, repaired to the lounge to reminisce on stories old and new. One of the great features of the Harris Hotel is a lovely painting of the 1964 ferry HEBRIDES in Reception. That fine vessel, one of the best of the car ferries, had served faithfully on the Hebridean Triangle service for 21 years. She had become a great favourite of the islanders. I was pleased to see that her large brass bell has pride of place in the bar of the Harris Hotel. As the sun set in the west some of the party took a stroll out to the old pier on the West Loch to see the Great Ocean and look for Tir nan Og. It is, perhaps, there more than anywhere else that one understands the derivation of the name Hebrides - The Islands on the Edge of the Ocean.

The Kyle of Scalpay

After HEBRIDEAN ISLES had departed early on the morning of Friday 28th April, with some of the Commodores aboard, WAVERLEY came back into the pier to prepare for her final northwards throw of her 1995 programme. There were not many aboard when she departed Tarbert for the last time of 1995, turned in the loch and headed along the northern shore of the East Loch passing to the north of Scotasay and into the Kyle of Scalpay, the very narrow stretch of water that separates the prosperous island of Scalpay from the Harris mainland. There we could see the little island class ferry CANNA at the slipway on Scalpay, preparing for one of her short hops across the Kyle to Harris. We were reminded that funding had recently been approved to construct a bridge across the Kyle so bringing to an end another old ferry route. It was anticipated that the bridge would be completed some time in 1996. As the Kyle of Scalpay is not a major shipping route it was anticipated that the bridge would be low level and, sadly, we reflected that that may be WAVERLEY's last sailing through that interesting narrow waterway. On leaving the eastern end of the Sound of Scalpay we headed north along the desolate eastern shoreline of Harris and Lewis. Although it was not sunny that day, the atmosphere was very clear and we had a tremendous view of the northern end of Skye, the lonely Shiant Isles and an amazing stretch of the Scottish mainland from Loch Torridon to Lochinver. We could recognise many of Scotland’s most prominent mountains - Suilven, Stac Pollidh and Ben More Coigach - even from that distance of over forty miles. It seemed no time after leaving Tarbert that we had left the mouth of Loch Erisort in our wake and were rounding Arnish Point to enter the great harbour of Stornoway again, WAVERLEY's first visit since 1991. Just before noon she berthed at the old north pier and, sadly, we took our leave of her for that day. We were cheered to see a considerable number of passengers waiting on the pier to take part in her afternoon cruise around the Shiant Islands and we strolled around to the Commissioner's Quay to watch her glide swiftly and gracefully astern out into the harbour, turn off the Goat Island boatyard and disappear behind Arnish on her way to the Shiants. When she returned she would operate a successful evening cruise to Loch Erisort before sailing light overnight to Oban.

The Commodores were long gone by the time that WAVERLEY returned to Stornoway. By various devious means - including an aeroplane - they were on their way to Oban for WAVERLEY's Saturday cruise. We lingered in Stornoway to watch the arrival and departure of the Ullapool ferry SUILVEN, then in her last three months on the route that she had served almost exclusively since her construction in 1974. Despite the crews valiant efforts to keep up her appearance right to the end, the toils of twenty one years on the Minch were beginning to take their toll. Soon the new ISLE OF LEWIS, which we had seen at the start of the programme a week earlier, would arrive to relieve SUILVEN of her duties.

The Taipan of Stornoway and the Venerable MARY JANE

Whilst in Stornoway we also saw again the mighty Lews Castle, built by the then owner of Lewis, Sir James Matheson in 1844. Sir James Matheson was one of the illustrious Taipans of the 'Noble House' of Hong Kong and his name is prominent to this day in the world famous trading house, Jardine Matheson. He also owned the first regular paddle steamer to serve Stornoway, the MARY JANE of 1846, the vessel being named after his wife. She arrived at Stornoway on the 4th June that year after a 28-hour voyage from Glasgow - WAVERLEY's meandering course from the city had taken rather longer. Whilst she only lasted on the Stornoway run for 2 years she was to become one of the longest lasting coastal steamers in the history of British coastal shipping and, surely one of the longest lasting paddle steamers anywhere. She passed into the Hutcheson fleet in 1857 and on to David MacBrayne in 1879 (by then she was named GLENCOE). During her long West Highland career she served a wide variety of routes calling at such diverse places as Stornoway, Ullapool, Lochinver, Tobermory, Portree, Armadale, Balmacara, Kyleakin, Broadford, Gairloch, Fort William, Corpach, West Loch Tarbert, Port Ellen, Port Askaig, Oban, Mallaig, etc. As far as we can ascertain, she did not visit the Uists or Barra or the west coast of Skye. She also spent a lot of time on MacBrayne's Clyde services to Loch Goil and Loch Fyne. In truth she may have been even farther travelled than WAVERLEY on the West Coast of Scotland. GLENCOE lasted in MacBrayne service until finally displaced at the remarkable age of 85 years in 1931, by the new motorship LOCHFYNE. At that time she shared the title of 'the oldest steamer in the World' with the Weymouth based steamer PREMIER. Whilst the latter went on until 1938 it must be realised that her duties were rather less arduous than those of the GLENCOE which was no summer butterfly. Not for her the luxury of hibernation to Bowling Harbour in winter - she was an all year ship. This makes her longevity on the stormy west coast of Scotland all the more remarkable. Truly, she must have been one of the most noteworthy paddle steamers of all time.

After only a short stay in Stornoway, we departed by bus for Tarbert; just in time to catch HEBRIDEAN ISLES to Uig and travel by car through Skye on a gorgeous spring evening. The Cuillin mountains were unforgettable that night. Arriving at Kyleakin at 1900 we took LOCH DUNVEGAN across the Kyle on what was our last journey on this historic ferry route. We did not have time to stop and wonder. Onwards we sped around Loch Duich, passing Eilean Donan and the imposing Five Sisters of Kintail and over the mountains, pausing briefly to gaze on beautiful Loch Garry, to Invergarry. As darkness gathered we followed the Caledonian Canal through the Great Glen, past the Commando Monument above Spean Bridge and into Fort William just as the last light reflected on snow of the mighty Ben Nevis. At Fort William we rested for the night. That day had been an extraordinary one - starting at Tarbert and going via Stornoway and Skye to finish at Fort William. As we slumbered in the Fort there was no rest for WAVERLEY. She was ploughing through the Minch and the darkness of the night, headed for Oban.

The Commodore of Kilchoan

When we arrived at Oban just after 1000 we found WAVERLEY already berthed at the North Pier as she had arrived at about 0800 after a nine-hour sailing from Stornoway. After bunkering and taking water and stores she was well filled for her 1100 departure from Oban for a cruise that took her up the Sound of Mull to Tobermory where she arrived in good time. As we entered the Bay we noted two other vessels making for Tobermory, the LORD OF THE ISLES inward bound from Tiree and Coll and the COLL coming across from Kilchoan. Unbeknown to the Commodores aboard WAVERLEY at that time, one of their more itinerant members (last seen at Uig the previous evening) was aboard the COLL hoping to make an unusual connection with the paddler at the Mull port. In fact the connection should have been quite possible according to advertised times. However, his clever, if somewhat eccentric, plan almost came unstuck due to engine problems on the ferry making her slightly late. Undeterred he requested the skipper of the COLL to contact Capt. Neill to ask him to wait another couple of minutes in the bay. COLL arrived with a minute to spare before WAVERLEY's advertised departure time and the Commodore was seen to move up the ferry slipway with all the alacrity he could muster. It was the fastest that he'd moved for years! Meanwhile, LORD OF THE ISLES had arrived in the bay almost simultaneously with the COLL and had to lie off until WAVERLEY had boarded the Commodore of Kilchoan (who, having regained his breath, was looking very satisfied with himself). It was a stirring and quite unusual sight - three 'steamers' in Tobermory Bay at the one time. As WAVERLEY moved astern across the bay towards Calve Island the LORD OF THE ISLES moved into her berth at the pier.

WAVERLEY rounded Rubha nan Gall and followed the familiar old route by Calgary and down the east coast of Mull to Staffa where she did a rather unusual 'figure of six' turn before heading off around the island in an unusual anticlockwise circumnavigation. Mendelssohn's music was there as well. After rounding the island we still had plenty of time to spare so Chief Officer Robin Barr interpreted the words in the timetable literally by taking the vessel for a cruise to the Treshnish Isles passing close by the eastern shore of Bac Mor, the famous Dutchman's Cap. It was the first time that any of the enthusiasts could remember a vessel giving such a close view of that distinctive little isle. Robin had made an important contribution to WAVERLEY’s preservation over many years as a relief navigating officer and Waverley Excursions director and his many friends were saddened to hear of his untimely death at the end of 1995. Only a few months earlier he had composed a moving obituary to his old shipmate Donald McKinnon. We lost two good friends in 1995. WAVERLEY set a course that took her close by the western shores of the two other large Treshnish Isles - Lunga and Fladda and directly towards Callach Point on the Mornish Peninsula of Mull. The return sailing to Oban was without note apart from the departure of the Commodore of Kilchoan at Tobermory. After calling at Oban, WAVERLEY operated a single sailing up Loch Linnhe to Fort William where she spent the night.

On Sunday, the last day of April, WAVERLEY sailed from Fort William in the morning for a sailing that had become a mainstay of her annual west highland programme - via Oban to the Four Lochs and Corryvreckan. Whilst the Commodores found the sailing a bit routine it has to be said that it is probably one of the most popular with the general public and always attracts a good number of passengers. For that reason, if no other, it has an important place in the West Highland programme. The sailing was made more interesting that year by the vessel proceeding to the head of Loch Melfort for the first time and by a return to the original convention of sailing up Loch Craignish almost to Ardfern and returning by the relatively narrow channel to the east of the two islands in the loch. Sadly that hitherto unspoilt stretch of highland loch has been desecrated by the installation of the omnipresent fish farm. We turned in the mouth of Loch Crinan and headed for Corryvreckan, which was very calm as usual, before heading back by the Garvellachs to Oban and Fort William.

Around Mull - the Wrong Way.

WAVERLEY's final West Highland cruise of 1995 was also a standard - or at least it was planned that way. The reality was somewhat different. Leaving Fort William at 0930 she steamed down Loch Linnhe to Oban where she picked up more passengers for her traditional Holiday Monday sailing to the Sacred Isle, Iona. Due to the wind and departure from the pier WAVERLEY left Oban bay by the north rather than sailing down the Sound of Kerrera as she usually does on her way to Iona via the Ross of Mull. This gave us the bonus of a closer look at the deserted western shoreline of Kerrera. The weather was quite fine as we steamed along the southern shore of Mull but the regulars aboard had already noted that the wind, by then in the south, was building a reasonable swell and the vessel started to take on a moderate pitch after she past Loch Buie and headed out towards Malcolm's Point. We suspected that the ferry landing at Iona would be difficult if not impossible. Our thoughts became more definite as we headed out to the Ross and passed between Mull and the Torran Rocks. Capt. Neill realised that there was no possibility of finding a safe anchorage in the normal places close to Iona so he took the vessel over to the mouth of the 'Bull-hole' near to the Fionnphort ferry slipway which Capt. Mishel had used two years earlier. However, even there the swell was considerable and three different anchorages were tried. In the first two it was impossible to get the anchor to hold the ship in such a way as to permit the ferries, OSSIAN OF STAFFA and FINGAL OF STAFFA to come alongside. At the third anchorage an attempt was made to bring the ferries alongside but the motion of the little boats in the swell precluded a safe passenger transfer. Reluctantly, Capt. Neill had to advise his passengers that a landing would not be possible. After an hour of attempted landings the paddler weighed anchor for the third time - but this time a cable connecting Iona to Mull was found to be entangled on the anchor so there was a short delay whilst it was the vessel was liberated from the unwanted 'shore line'.

The enthusiasts aboard had already worked out that the best way to return to Oban would be by the north of Mull and down the Sound. That would use up some of the excess time resulting from not landing at Iona and also avoid having to pass back through the swell off the southern shore of the island. That was what Capt. Neill decided to do and, for the second tine in two days, we found ourselves passing Staffa and rounding Rubha nan Gall. We saw the HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS at Tobermory that day and wondered if she would have an interesting competitor in her luxury cruises in the Western Isles a couple of years later as earlier in the year a new company had been formed in Glasgow, titled Paddle Steamer Cruise Line Ltd, to build a fleet of luxury paddle steamers to take a small complement of passengers on cruises in various areas of the world. According to the Company's plans the first vessel would be named NEW CALEDONIA and would operate cruises from Glasgow to the Firth of Clyde, Western Isles, Irish Coast and the north Coast of France. It was hoped that two or three other vessels would also be constructed to serve in other areas such as the Far East and the Caribbean. It was difficult to be too sceptical of these plans as they had the backing of several influential bodies, including the Port Glasgow based Ferguson Shipbuilders and the Glasgow Weir Group. It was hoped that an order for the NEW CALEDONIA could be placed soon and that she would enter service in 1997. The progenitor of the scheme had been aboard WAVERLEY for the initial part of the 1995 programme and was enthusiastic about the prospects for the ambitious project. Only time will tell if WAVERLEY's trail-blazing adventures in the Hebrides would be followed by another paddle steamer.

Meantime WAVERLEY was fighting an incredibly strong south easterly head wind as she forged down the Sound of Mull. Too soon she was approaching Oban Bay, where she found the Type 42 Royal Navy destroyer HMS NEWCASTLE anchored in the lee of Kerrera, and the 1995 adventure was almost at an end. Steaming across Oban Bay towards the North Pier, we remembered the words of the song always sung by the 'Third Funnel' Commodore at that stage of the proceedings. "Is it really over? Is it the end of the line?". Sadly, for the 1995 West Highland adventure, it really was. We lingered on Oban North Pier to watch the paddler reverse away from the pier on her way to Fort William, the real termination of the 1995 programme. She would be back at Oban around midnight, to take on fuel and water before starting off in the early hours of Tuesday morning for the long haul to Milford Haven and on round Land's End and through the English Channel to the Thames where she was due to take part in celebrations of the fiftieth anniversary of VE Day the following weekend. By then she would be a long way from Dunvegan.

Farewell Old Friends

WAVERLEY did not go to the Hebrides in 1996 and neither did BALMORAL; so, for the first time in sixteen years the regular Hebridean stalwarts had no opportunity to sail in their favourite area aboard a traditional passenger ship. The substitute roll on, roll off car ferries operated by Caledonian MacBrayne are fine vessels of their type but cannot reproduce the aura kindled by WAVERLEY and, to a lesser extent, BALMORAL. There is not the same quality of open deck space and the open space that they have is very high on their tall structures. Thus the excursionist cannot experience the feel of the sea as can be done on a traditional passenger vessel.

It was to general approval that WAVERLEY returned for a short West Highland visit in 1997. Much had changed since our last visit and some old friends had departed. Donald McKinnon of South Uist, for many years associated with the arduous task of operating the ships steam capstan during berthing operations, had passed away after an accident in his native isles not long after WAVERLEY’s 1995 visit. Donald, known as ‘Angus’ to many, had retired from the paddler at the end of the 1994 season after a lifetime at sea in which he had travelled round the world on many occasions. He was known to hundreds, if not thousands, of WAVERLEY passengers for his tireless efforts to maintain the standard of the ship’s operation, busily hurrying between the capstan and the gangway to assist operations and would always lend a hand to elderly and infirm passengers. Our abiding memories of Donald will be his quiet charm, good humour and courtesy for which he was truly legendary - although to him his efforts were ‘nothing special’. We will always recall the countless unsolicited cups of tea thrust into our hands when he thought that we were in need of revival on a typical ‘summer’ day. Donald had lived a hard life and we all wished him a long and happy retirement in his peaceful island home. Sadly, it was not to be. In 1994 Donald’s long time friend and foil, Roddy McIssac, the ships bo’sun for the previous 17 years also retired from the vessel. Roddy is also a native of South Uist and had mirrored Donald’s career at sea - spending much of his time sailing around the world with the Blue Star and other shipping lines but never loosing his West Highland accent and his mischievous sense of humour. Roddy was an expert at WAVERLEY’s wheel with an undefinable knack of knowing the master’s intentions and steering WAVERLEY into some incredibly tight corners, where ship’s of her type, size and manoeuvrability were never meant to go, around the British coasts. Roddy is a ‘legend in his own lifetime’ - who will forget his antics of hiding various items of food around secluded parts of the ship and rediscovering them as necessary, his unsurpassable style when ‘chatting up’ lady passengers, his sartorial eloquence displayed in his large wardrobe of multifarious hats and his overalls which failed more spectacularly each succeeding season to cover his rotund figure. We will never forget the ‘ceilidh’ that he and Donald held in the after deck shelter on Saturday evenings after the day’s cruise was over in company with, ‘Mhari Mhor’, his sister and long-suffering ‘victim’ of his jokes. Not long after Roddy’s retiral Mhari died and, with the passing of his great pal Donald a few months later, Roddy lost two of his closest companions early in his retirement. However, he was back aboard as a special guest for WAVERLEY’s Golden Anniversary celebrations in June 1997 and, hopefully, he will make many more re-appearances on the paddler’s decks in the years to come to meet up with his very many friends from around Britain and further afield.

Long time WAVERLEY Commodore David MacDonald, who had sailed on the ship and many of her former Clyde contemporaries from the mid 1950s and who was ever present on her West Highland voyages was taken ill in early 1995 and missed the ship’s Hebridean visit that year. Despite a long and frustrating convalescence David maintained the cheerfulness and good humour for which he was well known by many of WAVERLEY’s crew and regular passengers. Though partly disabled by his illness David fought bravely to regain some fitness and was able to return to the decks of the WAVERLEY, which he loved, in 1996. His many friends were glad to see him back aboard during that summer. Unfortunately, there was no Hebridean tour in 1996 for David to re-visit the waters he knew so well but he was keenly anticipating a return aboard WAVERLEY in 1997. Sadly, he passed away suddenly in March 1997, just a few weeks before that visit. When we returned to Oban in April the loss of David from our midst was keenly felt by his friends. However, we rejoiced in the memory of the many wonderful sailings that he had shared with us, the unforgettably hilarious moments - the collapsing bar chair and the mysterious case of the ‘mobile Raasay lighthouse’ - his magic bag of sandwiches from which he produced a never ending stream of sustenance (although he insisted that it had contained only four ‘pieces’ in the first place), his infectious enthusiasm and source of all the latest information, his generosity and his abiding catchphrase - ‘You know me, why not!’ - not so much a question as an affirmation of intent. David had looked forward to more sailings on WAVERLEY in his enforced retirement but his early passing, at the age of 49 years, denied him that reward which he richly deserved.

WAVERLEY’s 1997 visit also differed in the time of year in which it took place. It was decided to ‘experiment’ with a visit at the end of June (rather than late April / early May as previous visits) as there may be a chance of better weather with the longer days and more passengers. Neither of these hopes materialised as a bout of unseasonably poor mid-summer weather resulted in the cancellation of the most eagerly awaited sailing of that visit and probably discouraged the hoped for extra passengers from sailing. Captain Steve Mishel was in charge of the steamer during that visit. Although he had left the Company a couple of years earlier to pursue a new career as a pilot on the Forth Estuary, Steve’s commitment to WAVERLEY, which had manifested itself on many occasions during his 14 years with the organisation, was still very strong and this was demonstrated more than ever during the summer of 1997. Following the sudden and harrowing departure of long time master David Neill in mid 1997, Steve Mishel had stepped in to perform the unenviable task of Marine Superintendent and relief master over that summer, whilst maintaining his pilotage commitments in parallel. It is not an exaggeration to contend that without Steve Mishel’s tireless and unflinching dedication to the WAVERLEY’s continued operation during those very difficult times between June and October 1997, the future of the ship could have been seriously jeopardised. WAVERLEY’s regular passengers know that they have great cause to be thankful to Steve Mishel for his efforts and to his family for their understanding. Steve, in combination with the ship’s Chief Officer Graeme Gellatly (who demonstrated his considerable ship handling skills that season), also engendered a spirit of comradeship amongst the ship’s crew that season which helped to relieve the uncertainty that prevailed.

WAVERLEY did not offer a northbound Round the Mull sailing in 1997 due to charter commitments on the Clyde, so the visit started with a sailing to the Four Lochs and Corryvreckan. This was undertaken on a Saturday rather than the more normal Sunday timing to allow a special sailing to Iona the following day. Normally, WAVERLEY’s visits to Iona are timed to coincide with the early May holiday Monday but on this occasion the Sunday timing was to allow her to take part in a special service in Iona Abbey to commemorate the 1400th anniversary of the death of Columba, with whom the island is associated world wide. A special party from a Troon church, which included the minister who was to preach the sermon, travelled aboard WAVERLEY to Iona that day. Due to the additional time required at the island for the service the sailing originated in Oban rather than Fort William. However, this offered the opportunity of a more traditional type of Iona sailing, like those performed by KING GEORGE V, travelling out to the island via the Sound of Mull, with a call at Tobermory, passing Staffa and anchoring in Martyr’s Bay in the blue sandy Sound of Iona. The return sailing was via the Ross of Mull. Despite the reservations of ‘Dougie’ - the God-fearing Mate of the famous puffer VITAL SPARK that ‘Meenisters oan boats iss unlucky!’ we survived the occasion. In fact, the swell in the Sound of Iona was much more moderate than that experienced on many recent visits and that was a thankful blessing as we had to land and re-embark about 600 passengers by ferryboat on that occasion and there was little scope for delays initiated by long ferry runs.

On Monday 30th June WAVERLEY operated two return sailings from Oban to Fort William and back tying up with a specially organised steam hauled train between Fort William and Mallaig. Partly this was to enable passengers who did not wish a very early start the following day, to shift base to Mallaig for a later connection with WAVERLEY on the unique sailing that she was to operated on the Tuesday. However this was not very popular and the ship was lightly loaded that day. Between her first call at Fort William and her return to Oban WAVERLEY sailed into Loch Eil for the first time in some years. This resulted in the memorable meeting with the aforementioned steam train as it sped along the West Highland line to the north of the loch. The train was hauled by the ‘Black Five’ No 44767 George Stephenson which, like the paddle steamer, was built in 1947 and celebrating its Golden Jubilee. The locomotive, uniquely fitted with Stephenson link motion steam valve control, blew her piercing steam whistle in salute to WAVERLEY as they passed, and the paddle steamer returned the complement on her deeper, drier whistle. A satisfying timelessness characterised the mood of the meeting.

The sailing on Tuesday 1st July was to have been the ‘star’ of the 1997 visit but even as we returned to Oban from Fort William on the Monday evening we knew that it was unlikely to happen as unseasonal gales of Force 7 were forecast for exposed areas of ‘Hebrides’ the following day. Captain Mishel had to warn us that he would not be able to operate the sailing in such circumstances and all regular passengers recognised that that was the inevitable conclusion. Still we rose from our slumbers at the unearthly hour of 4.15 am in the vain hope that unique sailing that was due to depart from Oban 0500 would go ahead. The ship was due to sail all the way from Oban, round Ardnamurchan to Mallaig, Kyle of Lochalsh and Portree. She had of course done that before on a number of occasions but this time she was scheduled to sail all the way back from Portree to Oban the same day disembarking passengers at Mallaig for a coach return to Oban. Had the weather been fine it promised to be a memorable sailing perhaps rivalling the great sailings described earlier. But it was not to be and the band of ‘enthusiastic nutters’ were told by long suffering purser Jim MacFadzean that the sailing was cancelled. The only consolation was that we could go back to bed - except for the hardy Commodore (some of his fellow Commodores used lass sympathetic adjectives) who had spent the admittedly short night in a bus shelter! Ever the pillar of tact and discreteness we will not reveal the identity of the Commodore in vogue other than to mention that he is also prone to intermittent bouts of Antipodal exploration. WAVERLEY spent most of the day off service at Oban North Pier but did venture out for a period to clear the berth for another vessel. During this period it is believed that she anchored in Loch Creran for a shot time, her first visit to that loch.

The following day she returned to the Clyde, with passengers. She followed a fairly similar route to previous occasions. That time instead of diverting through Craighouse Harbour we made a short diversion into the Sound of Islay, not as far as Port Askaig, before turning and passing down the Islay shore, close under MacArthur’s Head Lighthouse en route to Port Ellen. After rounding the Mull we called at Campbeltown to disembark Oban passengers for their coach return. We were surprised to find the German registered liner EUROPA at anchor in the loch, her passengers being ashore for visits to Inveraray Castle and Crarae Gardens on Loch Fyneside. The forecast of worsening winds resulted in a diversion of our return voyage. After leaving Campbeltown she proceeded via the Kilbrannan Sound to Largs rather than via Pladda to Ayr, the first time that a West Highland tour had terminated at Largs.

Last Visit of the Millennium

Another short tour of the southern Hebrides was operated in 1998. After the fairly unsuccessful move to June in 1997, it was back to the traditional early May weekend for 1998. The first sailing was an attempt to emulate the very memorable sailing all the way from Glasgow to Oban via Largs, Campbeltown and Port Ellen (rather than Crinan) that had heralded the 1995 tour. Although the weather was not quite as good as the wonderful day three years earlier it was reasonable and, compared to the majority of the 1998 season which saw the worst summer weather since WAVERLEY’s return to service in 1975, the weather for the West Highland weekend was good. WAVERLEY was under the command of a new master for this visit. Captain Graeme Gellatly had taken over as principal master of the vessel only a few weeks earlier but he was a familiar face to most of the regular passengers, having graduated from helping in various areas of the ship whilst still a young lad to being the latest in the exceedingly long and illustrious role of Clyde paddle steamer masters. Graeme had spent some time during his training period as Chief Officer aboard various vessels in the Caledonian MacBrayne fleet and had served as Chief Officer aboard WAVERLEY in the last two seasons prior to obtaining his Home Trade Masters’s Ticket in late 1997. During the difficult summer of 1997 he had been instrumental in keeping the WAVERLEY in service at a time when the availability of masters who could handle her awkward quirks was stretched almost beyond the limit. He had surprised and impressed many seasoned WAVERLEY passengers with his undoubted shiphandling talents. Within days we knew she was in good hands and we were pleased to learn that he had been appointed principal master at the end of 1997. Together with his shiphandling and ‘man-management’ abilities Captain Gellatly quickly became a popular choice, respected by crew and passengers. Those of us who had sailed on WAVERLEY for many years reflected how Graeme’s father Wilf Gellatly, who had served in an unstinting and dedicated voluntary role on the PSPS Scottish Branch Committee and as shopkeeper in WAVERLEY’s extremely important shop, would have been exceedingly proud of his son’s achievements. Sadly, Wilf passed away a few years ago before he could witness those achievements. Wilf was another of the small but devoted band of WAVERLEY supporters whom we shall remember with fondness and respect for as long as WAVERLEY continues to sail. She is a living memorial to their enthusiasm and her continued operation, we know, would greatly please them.

There was nothing particularly special about the programme of sailings in 1998 but that did not make them any less enjoyable. Unfortunately, a timetabling problem meant that the vessel could not operate her first visit into Loch na Keal as intended as part of the sailing to Staffa on Saturday 2nd May and our call at sunny Tobermory on the return was shrouded in some uncertainty as regular sailings to the pier by Caledonian MacBrayne vessels had ceased very recently with the introduction of a new schedule devised for the new Coll / Tiree ferry CLANSMAN. As we left Tobermory that evening we wondered if it would be possible to return in future and we reflected on the historic first visit of WAVERLEY to the pier in 1983 when its future was also in doubt. We hoped for a similar revival in the fortunes of Tobermory pier as had occurred after the previous threat had lifted.

While she manoeuvred around Oban Bay in 1998 WAVERLEY did not meet up with the regular Mull ferry ISLE OF MULL as she had been spirited away to Stornoway to fill in for the regular vessel, ISLE OF LEWIS, which had suffered a serious mechanical failure. In her place was PIONEER, a familiar sight to WAVERLEY’s passengers on the Upper Clyde, making a reappearance on the principal Mull service for the first time in many years. Being much smaller than ISLE OF MULL she was assisted by a strangely familiar, chartered ferry sailing under the title PENTALINA - B and registered in Glasgow. She was, of course, the previous ferry IONA which had been sold to Orcadian interests in 1997. Instantly recognisable the vessel returned to her old haunts, minus the CalMac hull legend and funnel markings until ISLE OF LEWIS was repaired.

WAVERLEY returned to Ayr harbour on Tuesday 5th May at the end of what will probably be her last visit of the millennium to Hebridean waters.

Reflections

By 1998 WAVERLEY had completed sixteen visits to the magnificent waters of the Hebrides. The memories of the sailings described here will stay with those fortunate souls who trod the decks of the ship for many years, perhaps a lifetime. Surprisingly, to some, the weather during these great adventures was mostly good, sometimes perfect but always interesting. Anyone who had been present on most of the sailings had certainly seen much of the western seaboard of Scotland at its magnificent best. Only occasionally had they seen it with its misty veil and drenching skies. Even the Minch had been well behaved. The people of the Western Highlands and Islands had shown great interest in the ship; for the older ones perhaps she rekindled fond memories of the last of the MacBrayne paddle steamers, to which they had bid farewell fifty years earlier. The experiences rank above my many sailings on the WAVERLEY and other vessels around the coasts of the British Isles and further afield. WAVERLEY's loadings after 1990, particularly those in Skye and Lewis, were not as great as in the earlier years but sailings from Oban were still encouraging. Reduced numbers and the difficulties of obtaining bunkers in the area were making the operation of the World's Last Sea-going Paddle Steamer in Hebridean seas more difficult in the last decade of the twentieth century. Thankfully, the commitment of the Waverley Excursions to a West Highland programme remained firm, and the return to the Outer Isles and to exploring the new ports of Broadford, Uig and Dunvegan in 1995, was much appreciated by the regular West Highland band of travellers. Following the 1998 visit WAVERLEY was scheduled to undergo a major reconstruction which would seek to restore her original character and appearance whilst introducing modern standards of comfort and safety. The project, which will cost over £3.5m, is also intended to transform the ship to the equivalent of a new vessel. The purpose of this major rebuilding process was to extend the viable operational lifespan of the vessel by 30 years or more. Thus rejuvenated it is possible that return visits to the Hebrides will become technically and economically more feasible. As this major work would take up much of the first half of 1999 it seemed likely that WAVERLEY’s 1998 visit to the Hebrides would be the last of the 2nd Millennium.

It is to be hoped that WAVERLEY can return to sail in those awe-inspiring waters around the Hebrides well into the 21st Century. If she does, the Commodores and other friends who have experienced such memorable 'Excursions in the Hebrides' will surely return.

References

1. Duckworth, C. L. D. & Langmuir, G. E.

“West Highland Steamers”

Brown, Son & Ferguson, Glasgow. Four Editions (1935 - 1987)

2. Duckworth, C. L. D. & Langmuir, G. E.

“Clyde River & Other Steamers”

Brown, Son & Ferguson, Glasgow . Four Editions (1937 - 1990)

3. Duckworth, C. L. D. & Langmuir, G. E.

“Clyde & Other Coastal Steamers”

T. Stephenson & Sons Ltd. Preston. 1977

4. McCrorie, Ian

“Steamers of the Highlands and Islands”

Orr, Pollock & Co. Ltd., Greenock. 1987

5. West Highland Steamer Club

“Review of 1939” to “Review of 1970” inclusive

6. West Highland Steamer Club

Newsletters from 1971 to 1995

Appendix A

Wednesday June 3rd Kyle of Lochalsh - Oban

Thursday June 4th Oban - Port Ellen - Ayr

SAILINGS IN 1982

Friday April 23rd Ayr - Port Ellen -Oban

Saturday April 24th Fort William - Oban - Iona

Sunday April 25th Fort William - Oban - Corryvreckan Whirlpool

Monday April 26th Fort William - Oban

Tuesday April 27th Fort William - Oban - Fort William - Oban

Fort William - Loch Leven

SAILINGS IN 1983

Thursday May 26th Fort William - Tobermory

Fort William - Loch Linnhe cruise

SAILINGS IN 1984

Friday May 4th Ayr - Port Ellen - Oban - Fort William

Saturday May 5th Fort William - Oban - Tobermory - Staffa

Sunday May 6th Fort William - Oban - Four Lochs & Corryvreckan

Monday May 7th Fort William - Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 8th Fort William - Craignure - Sound of Mull

Fort William - Loch Eil

SAILINGS IN 1985

Friday May 3rd Campbeltown - Crinan - Oban - Fort William

Fort William - Loch Corry

Saturday May 4th Fort William - Oban - Tobermory -Staffa

Sunday May 5th Fort William - Oban - Crinan - Loch Sween

Monday May 6th Fort William - Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 8th Fort William - Craignure - Sound of Mull

SAILINGS IN 1986

Friday May 2nd Tarbert (L. Fyne) - Oban - Fort William

(Campbeltown - Oban - Ft William cancelled

due to weather)

Saturday May 3rd Fort William - Oban - Craignure - Loch

Sunart

Sunday May 4th Fort William - Oban - Crinan - Four Lochs

Monday May 5th Fort William - Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 6th Fort William - Craignure - Oban

Fort William - Oban

SAILINGS IN 1987

Friday May 1st Ayr - Port Ellen - Oban

Saturday May 2nd Oban - Tobermory - Loch Sunart

Sunday May 3rd Fort William - Oban - Tobermory - Staffa

Monday May 4th Fort William - Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 5th Fort William - Craignure - Oban

SAILINGS IN 1988

Saturday April 30th Oban - Tobermory - Staffa

Sunday May 1st Fort William - Oban - Four Lochs &

Corryvreckan

Monday May 2nd Fort William - Oban - Iona

Wednesday May 4th Oban - Mallaig - Kyle of Lochalsh - Loch ` Kishorn-Kyle - Mallaig - Portree

Thursday May 5th Portree - Raasay - Kyle - Loch Hourn

Friday May 6th Portree - Kyle - Armadale

SAILINGS IN 1989

Friday April 28th Ayr - Port Ellen - Oban

Saturday April 29th Oban - Tobermory - Staffa

Sunday April 30th Fort William - Oban - Crinan - Loch Sween

Monday May 1st Oban - Tobermory - Loch Sunart

(Iona cruise cancelled due to weather)

Wednesday May 3rd Oban - Mallaig - Kyle of Lochalsh - Loch

Carron-Kyle - Mallaig - Portree

Thursday May 4th Tarbert (Harris) - Lochmaddy

Friday May 5th Stornoway - Shiant Isles

Stornoway - Loch Erisort

Saturday May 6th Stornoway - Tarbert - Portree - Raasay - Kyle -

Kylerhea - Kyle - Raasay - Portree

Sunday May 7th Portree - Kyle - Mallaig - Loch Nevis

Monday May 8th Lochmaddy - Shiant Isles - Tarbert

SAILINGS IN 1990

Friday April 27th Ayr - Port Ellen - Oban

Saturday April 28th Oban - Tobermory - Armadale

Sunday April 29th Oban - Fort William - Loch Eil

Tuesday May 1st Castlebay - Lochboisdale

Castlebay - Sea of Hebrides cruise

Wednesday May 2nd Lochboisdale - Castlebay

Lochboisdale - Lochmaddy - Tarbert

Thursday May 3rd Portree - Kyle - Mallaig

Friday May 4th Stornoway - Tarbert

Stornoway - Shiant Isles

Saturday May 5th Oban - round Lismore and Kerrera

Sunday May 6th Fort William - Oban - Isles of the Sea

Monday May 7th Oban - Tobermory -Iona - Oban

SAILINGS IN 1991

Tuesday April 30th Crinan - Oban - Fort William - Loch Eil

Wednesday May 1st Oban - Mallaig - Kyle - Loch Carron - Kyle -

Mallaig - Kyle

Thursday May 2nd Stornoway - Tarbert

Stornoway - Lewis Lochs

Friday May 3^rd Portree-Kyle-Mallaig-Loch Nevis & Loch

Hourn

Saturday May 4th Oban - Tobermory - Armadale - Isle Ornsay

Sunday May 5th Oban - Four Lochs & Corryvreckan

Oban - Fort William

Monday May 6th Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 7th Oban - Port Ellen - Ayr

SAILINGS IN 1992

Friday May 1st Ayr - Mull of Kintyre - Campbeltown

(onward sailing to Port Ellen/Oban truncated

due to weather)

Saturday May 2nd Campbeltown - Oban - Tobermory -

Ardnamurchan - Loch Sunart

Sunday May 3rd Oban - Fort William - Oban - Four Lochs &

Corryvreckan

Monday May 4th Oban - Staffa - Iona

Tuesday May 5th Oban - Crinan - Port Ellen - Campbeltown -

Ayr

SAILINGS IN 1993

Friday April 30th Ayr - Port Ellen - Oban

Saturday May 1st Oban - Tobermory - Mallaig - Loch Hourn

Sunday May 2nd Oban - Fort William - Oban - Four Lochs &

Corryvreckan

Monday May 3rd Fort William - Oban - Iona

Tuesday May 4th Ft William - Oban - Port Ellen -Campbeltown- - Ayr

SAILINGS IN 1995

Friday April 21st Glasgow - Largs - Campbeltown - Crinan -Oban

Saturday April 22nd Oban - Kyle of Lochalsh - Broadford - Loch

Carron and Loch Kishorn - Broadford - Kyle -

Portree

Portree - Cruise to Applecross Bay

Sunday April 23rd Portree - Kyle - Mallaig - Cruise in Loch Hourn

Tuesday April 25th Kyle - Portree - Uig - Dunvegan - Cruise in Loch

Dunvegan

Wednesday April 26th Kyle - Mallaig - Kyle - Mallaig - Cruise in Loch

Nevis

Thursday April 27th Lochmaddy - Tarbert - Lochmaddy - Tarbert

Friday April 28th Tarbert - Stornoway

Stornoway - Cruise to the Shiant Isles

Stornoway - Cruise to Loch Erisort

Saturday April 29th Oban - Tobermory - Cruise round Staffa and

the Treshnish Isles

Oban - Fort William

Sunday April 30th Fort William - Oban - Four Lochs and

Corryvreckan

Monday May 1st Fort William - Oban - Cruise round Mull

(clockwise)

(substituted in place of a call at Iona due to the

swell in the Sound of Iona).

SAILINGS IN 1997

Saturday June 28th Oban to Four Lochs and Corryvreckan

Sunday June 29th Oban to Tobermory, Staffa (N.L.), Iona and back

to Oban by the Ross of Mull

Monday June 30^th Oban to Fort William

Wednesday July 2^nd Oban via Sound of Kerrera, Insh, Luing, Jura and

Islay to Port Ellen, Campbeltown via Kilbrannan

Sound, the Tan to Largs

SAILINGS IN 1998

Friday May 1^st Glasgow to Largs, Campbeltown, Port Ellen and Oban

Saturday May 2^nd Oban to Tobermory and cruise to Staffa

Sunday May 3^rd Oban to the Four Lochs and Corryvreckan

Oban to Fort William

Monday May 4^th Oban to Iona

Tuesday May 5^th Oban to Port Ellen, Campbeltown and Ayr

Appendix B

Friday April 28th Glasgow - Largs - Campbeltown - Oban

(Campbeltown - Oban light, due to mechanical

failure)

Saturday April 29th Oban - Colonsay - Gigha - Fort William

Sunday May 1st Fort William - Oban - Four Loch &

Corryvreckan

Monday May 2nd Fort William - Oban - Iona